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Routes in Upper Northeast Buttress

Birdman T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitchen Lichen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Last Grapes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Grapes / Pink Drainpipe Exit T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Like'n to Lichen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
My Pink Half of the Drainpipe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North East Rib T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st pitch - Charles Cole, Dave Evans & Randy Vogel, 1981, 2nd pitch - Charles Cole and Gib Lewis, July 1987
Page Views: 203 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Jun 2, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Some attractive crack climbing with an unfortunate section of loose blocks on pitch one. Pitch one is known as "Like'n to Lichen", starts on NE Farce for about 30ft then traverses left at a small bush to a cluster of loose blocks that are downright terrifying. Climb carefully through the blocks to a stance and good pro then step right to a 10c crux jam crack (go deep for finger locks). Follow a small dihedral through a roof and set up a belay above the roof or head up and left to a tree anchor above Last Grapes and My Pink Half of the Drainpipe.

P2 is known as "Bitchin' Lichen" and traverses right to a thin seam with a piton, then straight to to the corner of a roof with a bolt.

Location

Starts on NE Farce/El Whompo for 30ft. The loose block are obvious from the start.

Protection

Thin pro needed for P2.

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
An admin musta added the FA because I didnt. Sep 8, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I remember Craig Fry claiming both these first ascents, free solo, on hash. I'll check my notes too, but as he has told us many times, he has a perfect and infallible memory. Sep 8, 2016
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
I was on the first ascent of both of these routes, Lik'en to Lichen with Randy and Charles (in June 1980) and Bitchen Lichen (pronounced bitchen litchen) with Charles (in April 1984).

I just checked my journal from that period to check the dates and there is no mention of Gib Lewis being there on the day of the FA.

This makes me curious where Tradoholic got his/her "information." Sep 8, 2016