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Routes in Goldilocks Wall

Baby Bear T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gold Dust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Shit TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mama Bear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Bear T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wolf Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Max Jones, 1977
Page Views: 524 total, 5/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Aug 22, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Although one of the shorter climbs on the wall this packs a punch. Bolted it maybe, typical sport climb it is not.

Start at the overhang on the leftside of the wall. Make a tricky and committing sequence of moves up to the first bolt (spotter recommended). From the bolt move up left to a good flake and the 2nd bolt. Continue direct to the break (optional, and highly recommended cam).

From the break it is possible to escape left onto the large shelf, however to complete a good climb, continue directly up the arete to the anchors.

Location

Left side of the wall

Protection

2 bolts and a .5/.75 Camalot for the horizontal below the anchor. Might want to stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Although it may not appear as such from the ground, I thought this was one of the best routes on this wall. It is very sustained and offers a wide variety of moves from boulder problems, to hard crimps, to steep jug rests. Jun 4, 2012
Lurker
Verdi, NV
  5.10d
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
  5.10d
Only R-rated (.5 or .75 Camalot, can't remember) if you skip the cam placement after the second bolt. If you do skip the cam placement and blow the move, you might be facing groundfall potential. Mar 11, 2012