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Routes in Goldilocks Wall

Baby Bear T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gold Dust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Goldilocks S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Shit TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mama Bear T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Bear T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wolf Crack T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Max Jones, 1976
Page Views: 1,141 total, 11/month
Shared By: urs on Jul 21, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This severe overhanging dihedral is one of the most obvious lines on the Goldilocks Wall. Follow the obvious right leaning dihedral through tricky and powerful lye backs and finger locks. This line was put up first ascent on a lead onsight which is rare today, because most people would rather toprope it.

Location

Papa Bear is located to the left of baby bear and to the right of mama bear.

Protection

This dihedral takes small tcu's and nuts plus a few larger cams for the top.
There is a bolted anchor which u can easily access from walking to the top of the cliff.
urs
 
urs  
 
I can go with 3 stars for papa bear, but for Donner Summit there are very few 5.11b trad routes and Papa Bear is probably one of the best. So I put 4 stars due to what is in the area. If u compare it to Yosemite it definitely doesn't get 4 stars. Aug 5, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
A really nice route, congrats to urs on the onsight! I dogged it on TR but enjoyed it. I feel that the shortness of the climb and the short crux don't warrant 4 stars, but definitely a good line with good climbing. Jul 23, 2009