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Routes in River Road Dihedrals

BBQ Brush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloody Elbows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oxygen Debt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peapod Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Canal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
ker-THUD! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Billy Smallen and Carl Dec, August 2008
Page Views: 2,203 total, 19/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is a great moderate warm-up at the dihedrals! Start right behind the tower, directly below two bolts. Climb up and bust right after the second bolt to a small ledge. There is a small pod in the ledge that takes a grey alien nicely, a 0.75 Camalot or (even better) a 1.5 Friend fits in the flare above this. Follow the ledge to the shallow right facing dihedral. A #0 C3 or stopper fits nicely in the first pod. Get a good piece then stem and lieback your way through several more pods to a hand jam. From there run it out a couple of feet to the bolt anchors.

Location

Behind the towers and left of the cracks (bloody elbows, etc) at the dihedrals. The first bolt is roughly 8 feet off the ground and has a half pink anodized hanger.

Protection

2 each 0.3-#2 Camalot, Stoppers (or #0 C3), 2 Bolts

Photos

evan h
Denver, CO
  5.9
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.9
Maybe I didn't traverse right early enough, but the gear I placed between the last bolt and the dihedral proper was suspect at best. It might have worked as an aid placement, but I doubt the rock is solid enough to take a fall at that point. If that piece failed, you're hitting the ground. The upper crack was fun, but I wasn't thrilled on the lichen-covered slab and suspect gear before the dihedral. Not a bad route, but that's my 2 cents for a budding 5.9 trad leader. Nov 11, 2013
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.9
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.9
Thought the bolts were well spaced, the gear was fine, if 5.9 happens to be your limit, this route might be a bit scary.

The lichen is still heavy, needs more traffic, but all key holds are free of lichen now. Oct 1, 2012
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
The route seems to be cleaning up and getting a bit easier with time. May 29, 2012
cdec
SLC, UT
cdec   SLC, UT
Surprised to hear about run out. We thought it was pretty reasonable. Run out from the bolt to the crack or from the last piece to the chains? We wanted to add a reasonable moderate that would get climbed. Jul 13, 2010
GeorgeHM  
 
I didn't think it was that bad. Pretty fun actually. It is a little run out true, but if you clip the bolt and move right there is gear. A couple of fun moves! Good warm-up. Jun 11, 2010
a bit slimy, and a bit run. gear is so so. O tcu good beta. Sep 19, 2008