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Routes in River Road Dihedrals

BBQ Brush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloody Elbows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oxygen Debt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peapod Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Canal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
ker-THUD! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Gagner, Rich Perch 1986
Page Views: 896 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts a few feet to the left of Bloody Knees in the large, dark, and steep right-facing dihedral. Start up the thin crack in the middle of the dihedral. This quickly widens and eventually becomes an offwidth for a few moves to the smaller overhang. Here you are faced with some fist jams if you have large hands. The rest is low angle to the anchor, 70'.

This route was fun but short, and required more intricate footwork than would be expected on a desert fist crack. I thought the climbing was easier than I expected, but I have big hands. If you can't get a fist or forearm jam in the overhang 11+ is probably accurate.

Protection

Single rack through #2 Camalot. Double 3 and 4. Big bros 1,2 and (2) #3.

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