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Routes in River Road Dihedrals

BBQ Brush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloody Elbows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oxygen Debt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peapod Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Canal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
ker-THUD! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Carl Dec and Billy Smallen, July 2008
Page Views: 1,095 total, 10/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Jul 25, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a fun, moderate climb that requires varied techniques. Start on a ramp that is surprisingly hard for its low angle. Once it gets steeper you hit the crux--reach high and slot a nut first! Stem, face climb, and grovel to a stance, then follow the narrowing crack from wide hands to small hands. At the headwall it turns to fingers in a hollow block. Get a finger sized piece to start and then a hand sized piece on top of the block. From the block bust out on Mill Creek style jugs to a mantle (look for a hidden hold) and then walk around right to the anchors.

Remember: New Routes, especially ones in the desert, have loose rock, wear helmets!

Location

This route is located on the climbers left hand side of the dihedrals around the tower from Bloody Elbows. Start in a little dry creek bed under a tree, belay right below a roof.

Protection

Doubles from 0.3 Camalot to #2 Camalot, Small Stoppers, Double bolt anchor.

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cdec
SLC, UT
 
cdec   SLC, UT
 
Both this and ker-THUD need some traffic to clean up as did Bloody Elbows. This section of the wall has alot of lichen.
Neither are destine to become classics but both face North, are enjoyable and can be done with one rope. At 5.9 the Bloodys see alot of action. We think/hope these routes will round out a 1/2 day of moderate climbing at the Dihedrals.
Aug 22, 2008