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Routes in River Road Dihedrals

BBQ Brush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bloody Elbows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oxygen Debt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peapod Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Root Canal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
ker-THUD! T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
Page Views: 6,470 total, 70/month
Shared By: paul bucher on May 27, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Obvious chimney on Molar Tower left of the main Dihedral Routes. Great route with classic photo opportunities. Face opposite bolts and sub summit is still a little crumbly, but will clean up with future ascents. Can be done in one pitch, but recommend two pitches belaying from stance on sub summit. Crux move is a lunge from sub summit to the main summit. 5.8 crux can go as an A0 move or escape from sub summit anchor if needed. Please leave all fixed hardware. This is a great route for anyone wanting to start learning chimney technique and is well protected.

Location

Obvious Chimney. Route is facing the river. Anchor on top.

Protection

5 Bolts, 2 Slung Huecos
7 Quick Draws
David
 
David  
 
The first bolt is now a glue-in - solid! Did it in one pitch, and I found a cordelette useful to extend the anchor over the lip for toproping.

This is a picturesque, fun chimney climb that's right off the road and not to be missed if you're driving down River road. Aug 13, 2017
Aaron Glasenapp
Denver, CO
 
Aaron Glasenapp   Denver, CO
 
The first bolt is extremely loose. It appears to have stripped the hole in the rock a significant amount, and I easily pulled it out about 3/4 of an inch. I'm pretty sure a few good yanks would pull it out of the rock entirely.

That being said, it actually not that scary get up to the second bolt a few feet higher. I pushed the first bolt back in to the wall and clipped it anyway. Would definitely not want to fall on it though.
Apr 17, 2017
Climbed it 5/6/16. Awesome lead and interesting moves. The new anchors could withstand a nuclear explosion. Aka bomber. Nice break from the slab on Potash Rd. Agree its 5.8+, but dont agree with doing it in 2 pitches. I dont see why you would waste the time, a 60m rope easily takes care of the job and the somewhat sketchy jump to the summit is protected by a sling and has a nice piece of webbing to hold onto for added security. May 25, 2016
JohnEdsonStagg
Evergreen, CO
JohnEdsonStagg   Evergreen, CO
Paul,

Thanks for the anchor replacement. We're going back out for the Thanksgiving Holiday and this is on our Tick list. I love this route! Oct 9, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
new anchors, DONE!!!! as of 2/25/13. probably now has the best anchors in the desert, maybe the planet and possibly the universe. a brontosaurus could rap off of these things. Feb 26, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
it's on our to do list. we hope to up grade as soon as it gets warmer. as is, the anchors are still bomber. if you like molar, may i suggest terma or spear of destiny. both have super bomb new chain anchors. peace to all. Feb 19, 2013
JohnEdsonStagg
Evergreen, CO
JohnEdsonStagg   Evergreen, CO
Does anyone know if the anchors have been replaced at the top of the Root canal. Lat time I climbed it, there were 2 slings and no chains. Feb 18, 2013
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
I firmly believe that safely bolting sick moderates like this is a huge service to the climbing community. Good on ya, and nice find! This would be the ideal first lead - short, fully bolted, ridiculously secure clips, and clean falls.

This would be nicely shaded and great on a hot day, but probably uncomfortably chilly in <50ยบ weather. Nov 22, 2012
Super fun, cruiser chimney. Perfect for those new to chimneys and towers, or those just looking for some fun. Added to a short drive from town with a speedy approach and beautiful views means there are no excuses to not climb Root Canal. Good work, guys! May 17, 2012
This was probably the funnest 5.8 I've ever done. On top of this short tower is a box with a buddha next to it. Apr 13, 2012
jakobi
moab, utah
 
jakobi   moab, utah
 
Pretty fun route, nice work guys. Dec 15, 2010
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
  5.8-
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
  5.8-
Hey guys great route! climbed it today. It was a challenge for lacy 17. It was her 6th time climbing. She made it. thanks for putting this classic mod up. Its a gem! Nov 14, 2010