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Routes in Broads Fork

Broad Expectations S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dumb Broads S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kid Gloves S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misery S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plimsol Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unknown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman and Fred Henion 1991
Page Views: 237 total, 2/month
Shared By: hEatchel on Aug 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Short and steep. Turn the overhang... not as easy as it looks.

Location

far left through the overhang

Protection

bolts to chains

Photos

J Saarela
Park City
  5.10c/d
J Saarela   Park City
  5.10c/d
The left eye bolt at the anchor is quite loose. With no chains, this is a bit of a spooky anchor to rap from (think american death triangle where the rusted bolts are in a bit of a dihedral, so there's force pulling on each bolt almost perpendicular to the rock).

Kind of a strange line. Oct 30, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
This route is So So at best, and it is the only easy climb to use as a warm up.

I found that taking a casual Bolt-to-bolt -with a full rest at each bolt- run up Misery to be a better warm up, with the bonus being that you'll have the draws hanging when you set out on your red point.

Kid Gloves overhangs 12 ft. in its length, so it's pretty steep...and dirty, but it has its merit in an athletic sort of way. May 31, 2015
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
 
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
 
The first go I felt like this was really bizarre and sandbagged - worked the moves and on the second go it was an easy and fun 10.b, just find the feet and the better holds, lot of chalk on bad stuff. Sep 6, 2013
sfotex
Sandy, UT
 
sfotex   Sandy, UT
 
I really don't think this thing is that bad. The slab at the bottom is fun, and the top part is pretty cruiser if you work the feet.. Aug 12, 2012
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
throw some lockers on the chains, tighten them really good and have your partner lead this! the finish is pumpy Jan 25, 2012
this thing is really awkward but what else is there to warm up on? Aug 14, 2008
Riddler
Centerville, UT
 
Riddler   Centerville, UT
 
Solid 10b. Pretty pumpy with a few awkward moves thrown in. Aug 14, 2008