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Routes in Broads Fork

Broad Expectations S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dumb Broads S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kid Gloves S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misery S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plimsol Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unknown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, 1991
Page Views: 293 total, 3/month
Shared By: Boissal on Jul 13, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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The route

Climb past 6 bolts up the ever-steepening prow using juggy holds at first then hard pinches and crimps and even a few sloppers up high for good measure.
The climbing is fairly sustained and the long burly moves at the crux will feel harder than 12b due to the pump factor and the feet which insist on not being where you need them.
Keep a bit of forearm strength for the awkward and sloppy moves that get you on the ramp at the 6th bolt or you'll flail within reach of the anchors...
Finally, watch your head as you try to avoid guano up on the ramp, there are a few skull-cracking blocks looming.


Helmet needed on a sport route?? Is this Hellgate??

The place

Plimsol Line is the third bolted route as you walk along the Broads Fork wall. It climbs the impressive steep prow just to the right of the blackened-rock section, maybe 10' right of the old fire pit.
The first bolt is shared with the flakalicious route Misery

The pro

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (well, 2 rusty glue-in eye-bolts to be accurate). Watch where the rope runs when lowering, sharp holds abound.

Don't miss the 6th bolt, it's up over the lip a bit to the right of the line.
Avoid falling on bolt 3 as the hanger is facing up and would be subject to a huge amount of torque if weighted.

Photos

steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
Guess it depends what you're good at. BIJ is headier, that's for sure, but less physical. Solid Big 12b on both accounts. Jul 14, 2012
Sam Miller
salt lake city, UT
Sam Miller   salt lake city, UT
It's a tough .12b, but still within that grade. And I agree with it not being as hard as Big in Japan. I really think that is the hardest .12b in the canyon. Jul 9, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.12b
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.12b
13a? wow, that is a stretch, even by maple standards. This is not a sandbag people, it is legit 12b. way easier for me than big in japan, or dumb broads for that matter. There is not a single bad hold on this route. Skip all those left facing sidepulls at the crux and throw to the jug hole. Very doable. "fixed" draws on this one as of 5/24/12. Probably should be removed. May 24, 2012
T_jones
Salt Lake
 
T_jones   Salt Lake
 
This would not be 13a in maple. maybe 12c. Once you figure out the crux it's not too bad May 14, 2012
DTM
DTM  
This would be 13a in Maple, but Big Cottonwood is notorious for the sandbag. Good route with the crux being up high before the lip. Sep 9, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
I think it's the hardest of the 12b's in Big but I don't think it's 12c (in Big it would be on the light end of that grade) once you sort it out. That said, sorting it out is not simple. It's tricky. Would get a harder grade at many climbing areas certainly. Great route no matter how hard you find it. Jun 3, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
 
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
 
I was told by a burly man that the 12b rating is quite the sandbag.
I don't have anything to compare the route with so I gave it the book rating. 5.hard seems accurate. Jul 13, 2009