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Routes in Broads Fork

Broad Expectations S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dumb Broads S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kid Gloves S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Misery S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plimsol Line S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
unknown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Brent Jeffry and Jeff Twait
Page Views: 228 total, 4/month
Shared By: sfotex on Aug 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This is how I've been climbing it, you can go more direct to make it harder. Start in the corner to left, go up a bit in corner, lean out, and clip the 1st bolt, move right then up to jug, clip 2nd bolt. Move up on a sidepull, a sloper, and a small crimp then left towards corner. Clip third bolt. Move up a bit, then traverse right into plimsol line. Clip 4th bolt (part of plimsol, weird clip), Finish on plimsol line.

Location

Between Kid Gloves and Plimsol Line. 2nd route from left. Joins Plimsol Line at the 4th clip.

Protection

5 bolts +anchors.
2 and 3rd are permadraws.

Photos

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David DeFranza
Salt Lake City, UT
David DeFranza   Salt Lake City, UT
This line looks great but the fixed draws seem to have been exposed to fire recently. Their bolt hangers are blackened and the dog bones feel a bit, I don't know, crispy. Obviously, use your own discretion but those vintage DMM Mamba draws gave me some pause, for sure.

Considering the unfortunate and ongoing fire activity at the base, this might be a good candidate for some wire-slung draws. Jul 16, 2017
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12c
This is a fun line that I had been avoiding for years because of the fire pit at its base. Turns out I didn't even notice the soot stains while climbing. I started from the right and clipped the first bolt from a crimp. After that its interesting boulder problem after boulder problem. Its a good line that I found more fun than Plimsol. Jul 11, 2017