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Routes in Bedrock

Bam Bam S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Barney's Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bear, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedrock's Latest T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Betty T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Betty S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Fred Flintstone's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gorilla Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoneage Struggle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Wires T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wally World T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 951 total, 8/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Aug 11, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Ascend steep face climbing past bolts, then follow a steep thin crack up to another bolt and the anchor. This route used to be 5.12c, but over time holds have broken off making it much harder.

See the comment below.

Location

Left of Gorilla Crack, this finger crack is easy to spot.

Protection

Bolts & gear for the crack.

Photos

Christopher Barlow
  5.13- PG13
Christopher Barlow  
  5.13- PG13
Tim K. and I worked and re-redpointed this thing a few days ago. It is still a very good pitch - maybe one of the better ones at East Animas. While a good bit harder than .12c now, most of the route is rather moderate (5.11 or easier) with excellent face climbing and stemming to a really nice finger crack to a boulder problem at the top. In addition to about 12-14 quickdraws (with a couple of slings), bring a few large stoppers (BD #10-11) for the finger crack. The hardest moves are just above one of these bomber stoppers at the top of the crack. One could put in a yellow Alien type piece above the last bolt, but if you've made it that far . . . . Jun 2, 2011