Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tadpole & Puffy Tee
Page Views: 354 total · 5/month
Shared By: knowbuddy Buddy on Oct 23, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Lieback the flake to the hand crack. Exiting the crack is the crux.

Location

It is where Thin Wires used to be.

Protection

Hands.

Photos

Wild. Geology in action! Did anyone surf that flake to the ground? Nice work snagging the FA. Gotta be on the look out for these types of opportunities! Feb 6, 2014
S.Mckinna
Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
S.Mckinna   Cañon City, CO
  5.9+
The starting flake will definitely not be there forever! It feels solid enough now, but I wouldn't protect with it. I was happy to have a thin wire to protect the moves to the anchor. Still a tad chossy, but it could clean up. Mar 29, 2014
The starting flake has fallen, leaving a dust-coated stemming problem up to an overhang. A #1 Camalot can be placed at the lip. Turning the lip is the now the crux (5.10). Above, the so-called handcrack continues for a few feet, then it widens to fist, then offwidth.

Darren did a stellar job leading this burly climb. Overall, he placed one #1, one #2, one #3, three #4s, and one #5. Left of the the sharp, right-protruding flake at the top, he placed a 3/4-inch Mastercam. A thin wire may fit there. A good bolted anchor lies not far, up and left. Dec 4, 2017
Ian Altman   CO
Speak of geology in action! This route, along with the Bear, I think, is no longer there. Huge rockfall this Spring or past Winter. Biggest modern carnage I've seen at East A. May 4, 2019