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Routes in Bedrock

Bam Bam S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Barney's Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bear, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bedrock's Latest T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Betty T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Betty S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Fred Flintstone's Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gorilla Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stoneage Struggle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thin Wires T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wally World T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,413 total · 10/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route and an East A classic! Tricky moves up a slab lead to varied and interesting face climbing. Finish up the nice steep finger crack then mantle to a small ledge with bolts.

Location

This is between Gorilla Crack and The Squeeze.

Protection

Blue - yellow Aliens, small - medium stoppers, 8 bolts.

Photos

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Ben Kiessel  
 
This is one of the best routes at East A. Nov 14, 2007
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
Heady start for sure. Some of those bolts could be replaced if anyone's looking for something to do/put money into. Apr 21, 2010
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.12a
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.12a
Anybody know why all the bolts on Barney's Crack looked bashed in? Jul 6, 2011
Pretty poor quality rock and shitty bolts make this an interesting pitch. Looked like there were a good amount of freshly broken holds on it yesterday . Oct 19, 2012
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
Several bolts that were in the worst shape have been replaced, though the old studs still need to be removed if anyone has a steel chisel, I'd be happy to do it myself.

What do you folks think of replacing the first bolt with the mangled hanger? If it were replaced ,the draw when clipped would not hang over that hand hold and could potentially alter how the route climbs, is this nit picky or a legit concern? Nov 27, 2012
chosspector
San Juans, CO
 
chosspector   San Juans, CO
 
First bolt needs to be moved 6" to the right for sure. Dec 11, 2012
-mn
-mn  
Or 12" lower so you don't crater if you blow it. I'd talk to Joel and Tim? (FA) though, before you go and "re-place" anything else on this route. Sam - are you going to saw those studs off and patch the holes? Yeah, this is one of the best - the last 20ft. anyway - and funkiest routes up there. ..miles Dec 12, 2012
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
Ok, sorry 'bout those lame ass bolts, but here's the story: durangorockclimbing.com/?p=749
I don't know if anyone has replaced those bolts yet, if not, I will.

I can't really see why some think the start is heady or why the bolt would be moved down. People might be doing those first moves wrong or something. Anyway, the bolt could be moved left or right a few inches. I used a good climbing bolt for the first bolt, because that's the crux of the whole route, and my thinking was that if you could get past there, you shouldn't fall on the easier terrain above.

Another reason I used those $0.29 pieces of crap from Kroegers is that a guy can set them in the hole with one hand whilst hanging on to the rock with the other (you need two hands to get a Rawl 5 piece started. Plus they were cheap). At the time, I thought those bolts would be totally adequate - I didn't even bother placing them to full depth. I think previously, I had been using quarter inch split shaft little things that I got for free, from a surplus. The route, Crime and Punishment used to be equipped with, like, 5 of those, it was basically a free solo back then. Terrifying to lead. Anyway, the climbing world was at an awkward stage of evolution at that time. And Durango in a bubble, as always.

Def one of the coolest routes at East A.

In fact, I think the anchor is a couple of those old, threaded, split shaft 1/4" x 2" bolts and one 3/8" Rawl. Totally bomber! Nov 28, 2015
Tim Kuss
Durango, CO
 
Tim Kuss   Durango, CO
 
Protect the crack with small and meduim stoppers. You will phuk yerself with cams. Nov 28, 2015

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