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Routes in The Cathedral

Aftershock T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Celestial Ascension T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devil Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Doe 3 T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Karmic Trace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mission Impossible T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamy S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuptial Vow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oracle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Painted Bird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinny Len Crimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Slab S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swamp Cooler T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ben Folsom, August 10th 2008
Page Views: 150 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Strenuous moves in a dihedral lead to a knifeblade in a horizontal. Another big move leads to good cracks above. Where the crack kind of runs out, continue straight up the face past gear placements in horizontals. A final mantle onto a slab and a good horizontal crack to set up a gear belay.

To descend, and easy scramble right (about 5.4) from the natural anchor will lead you to a set of chains on top of Celestial Ascension. Rappel from there.

Location

To the right of Swamp Cooler is Painted Bird, which has a bolt and pin at a 3 foot roof. To the right of that is "Tainted Word" which has a fixed knifeblade above a small roof. Just to the right of that is a clean dihedral with a fixed knifeblade in a horizontal above the end of the dihedral. This is "Karmic Trace". The next route to the right is "Devil Tree".

Protection

A set of cams from small to #2 camalot size. Be sure to save two or three for the belay. The horizontal crack for the belay is varied in size.

Photos

Ben Folsom  
 
Heard the bolt is gone now too. btw... that bolt was placed on the lead. Surely removed on rappel. Jun 13, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Lame. Somebody needs to have their nuts nailed to Devil Tree... Nov 1, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Someone stole the fixed pin I left in this route. It's a good route, and is unprotectable without that pin. I guess I'll have to put a bolt in now? if the pin is going to continue to disappear. Nov 1, 2010
nice addition.. hard little boulder problem.. Sep 16, 2008
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Nice work Ben! Been eyeing that 'hedral for years. Glad you did the cleaning! Aug 13, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
I tried to do my homework... but if anybody has led this (or soloed it) before, please let me know and I'll go yank the pin I placed and delete this post. I doubt it has been climbed before as the crack was full, and I mean full of dirt and gravel. I spent 4-6 hours cleaning it out. I did not clean any of the nice, green, aesthetic lichen off the wall. None of the usable holds interfered with it. I asked around and couldn't find anything about this line anywhere. Aug 11, 2008
Ben Folsom  
 
I spent many hours cleaning dirt, gravel & cobwebs out of the cracks. The knifeblade which protects the crux is bomber. When I placed it, it rang and went in perfectly. I have fallen on it many, many times and it hasn't budged. Aug 10, 2008