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Routes in The Cathedral

Aftershock T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Celestial Ascension T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devil Tree T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Doe 3 T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Karmic Trace T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mission Impossible T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monogamy S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuptial Vow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oracle T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Painted Bird T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinny Len Crimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Slab S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swamp Cooler T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: L. Ellison, P. Scannell, B. Smoot - Sans Bolts, 1983
Page Views: 2,763 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This climbs the right bolt line on the far west end of the North face of the Cathedral. Did you get all of that? It climbs a horizontally cracked face with small but juggy overhangs.

Protection

2 bolts are up top for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb. However, these bolts are, I believe 1/4 inch buttonheads with home made hangers. Be careful, or use some gear. Bolt 2 made no sense, and I didn't clip it.

Photos

Nick Meinzer
Mountain Green
Nick Meinzer   Mountain Green
Ahh the great Sans Bolts! He put up a lot of first ascents around here until his untimely demise in a hammer drill accident... Jun 30, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8
This turned out to be a really fun romp when done FA-style without the bolts. I placed a number of bomber micro-cams up high and placements abound if you stray a bit off the bolt line and use long runners. The gear down low is slightly less inspiring but there are some good options. I think a #1 can be used up high but a rack of microcams up to a .5 is sufficient.
Still worth a PG and probably not for the 5.8 leader. May 13, 2013
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
So, Brian, what say ye about the bolts, then? Ok or not? Sep 28, 2009
Joel R. Andersen
SLC, Utah
Joel R. Andersen   SLC, Utah
I love this canyon and it's a great canyon for getting away from the sun on hot days. Jul 21, 2009
bsmoot  
This route was originally led with trad gear only. No bolts were placed on the first ascent. Jun 22, 2009
jon
  5.8
jon  
  5.8
Fun route not hard, but defintely worth trying Sep 1, 2005
Jake Richens
Sl, ut
  5.8
Jake Richens   Sl, ut
  5.8
Nice bolts, well spaced. The second clip is nicely hung but with huge holds, but I'd advise staying about 1and a 1/2 feet to the left of the 2nd bolt to avoid some rounded edges.

#2 is a spinner Aug 29, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
5.8
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
5.8
All the old suspect bolts have been replaced, with new shiney ones. Also there is a new top anchor placed below the top lip of the climb. This prevents your rope from grinding over the edge as you're being lowered. May 23, 2005
Paul S
Fruita, CO
  5.7
Paul S   Fruita, CO
  5.7
Nice beginner sport lines, be careful on the first mantle which is the crux of this 5.7. Feb 3, 2005

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