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Routes in Trash Tower

Court Jester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dunce Cap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbageboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash Compactor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trash Disco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Luke Laeser and Walt Wehner
Page Views: 641 total, 6/month
Shared By: Laeserguns on Jul 24, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

I bolted this sometime after bolting weenies go like this. After climbing a nasty crux down low traverse slightly right into the weeinies route.

Location

This route is located to the left of "weenies go like this".

Protection

5 bolts and anchors

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11d
Most will find this easier than the other Dungeon 12a's, once you decipher the crux sequence.
6' of easy climbing to a good rest, then a great, sequential, 3-move V3 boulder problem crux at the 2nd bolt, possibly harder for short people. You get a good rest just after the crux, at the 3rd bolt. Don't pull too hard on the tempting juggy but chossy flakes out left here. Then step right to the 5.10+ finish of Weenies.

edit 4/2016: Josh and I cleaned some of the loose flakes just after the crux 4/2016. We felt like it was a good thing to do in this case, but I want to be transparent about it because some anonymous "cleaning" at the Dungeon in recent years has been complained about by some (on Moat Jump & Moat Pump it was arguably excessive). This was stuff we could pull off by hand, no pry bars or any of that. I doubt anyone cares since few people do this climb, but if anyone has a gripe with this, contact me, and I'll explain the same thing using shorter words. Nov 23, 2012
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.12
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.12
Unless the hold that broke off was a bucket - and I mean a bucket, there is no way that this route is 11c/d. While certainly not as sustained, I felt it was harder than any single move on Moat Jump, Against Nature, or Gangland. Perhaps on par with Little Evil or Crimp Chimp? Of course, maybe I'm just weak and seeing as this was my first time on the route, it felt abnormally hard...who knows. Nonetheless, I found the opening sequence to be fun and very bouldery all the way to the third bolt where it merges with the easier upper section of Weenies. I didn't encounter much in the way of choss (thanks Supra?), but if you're arachnophobic, you may want to avoid this as there were about a bazillion monstrous spiderwebs on it. Jul 26, 2009