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Routes in Trash Tower

Court Jester S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dunce Cap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Garbageboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Carpet Ride S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trash Compactor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trash Disco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weenies Go Like This (aka Garbageman) S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Luke Laeser
Page Views: 1,470 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Very fun climb. Probably the best moderate at the Dungeon. Sustained climbing throughout. Crux is clipping the third bolt.

Location

Located just to the right of Garbageboy, this route faces the stream. Climbs up the left-hand corner system.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor

Photos

Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.10a
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.10a
Fun climb and a great lead. Getting in a position to clip 3rd bolt was interesting and sketchy as you can still easily hit the deck from that height. However, if you use your head and some well placed feet instead of your biceps, you can easily cruise through that section. May 14, 2015
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a
I haven't found anyone that agrees with me, but I thought the crux was making the moves getting up to the fourth bolt (not between 2 and 3). Jan 30, 2009
Devin Shunk
  5.10a
Devin Shunk  
  5.10a
Just a heads up. I was out here yesterday and watched a climber fall on this one as he was going for the third bolt. Given the position of the belayer and the height above the last bolt, he actually hit the belayer before being "caught" by the rope. There were no serious injuries. Be careful on this one - the hardest move (IMO) is through this section between the second and third bolt. May 14, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10a
FA: Luke Laeser. May 14, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10a
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10a
This is a great 10a warm up climb on solid rock. Jul 8, 2007