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Routes in El Sombrero

La Piñata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
North Dihedral (aka Just Another BBQ) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A1
Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 9 November 1997
Page Views: 372 total, 3/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A real tower experience in a remote setting.

Pitch #1: Climb 5.8 low angled section past a bolt to the right facing bulging dihedral. Follow this to a huge ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.10, A0, 50m.

Pitch #2: Leave the huge ledge for the summit starting up low angle slab (5.9) protected by one bolt. The angle steepens with A1 moves passing several bolts and holes and fixed protection is necessary to climb higher. Pass a fixed Nut, a ledge, and some 5.7 climbing to the tower top and two bolt belay. 5.9, A1, 55m.

Location

The approach can be somewhat complex, so study the north side cliff bands well before fording the river and charging toward El Sombrero. La Piñata ascends the SE corner of the conical tower. Make your way around to this side from the north side by skirting the north side and scrambling toward a large right facing bulging corner.
Rappel the route. A rope was once stuck here while descending from Just Another BBQ. May require long slings to extend the anchor.

Protection

Set of Camalots, QDs, slings, Hooks, RBs, keyhole hangers, tie-offs and a few assorted pitons and hammer to re-fix several aready fixed pitons.

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