North Dihedral (aka Just Another BBQ)
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||James Garrett and Paul Ross, 18 April 2001|
|Page Views:||1,260 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionA very impressive dihedral intersects the North side of El Sombrero. This was first attempted by numerous parties over a two year period of time including Franziska Garrett, George Rosenthal, Layne Potter, and Chris Donharl...4 attempts... before completing it with Paul. Fixed ropes had been left to the top of the first pitch.
Pitch #1: Layback a hand crack up a flake that trends right into the dihedral. Continue up the hand crack which widens until it ends and climb up a faint ledgy section until a three-bolt belay ledge. Will be a phenomenal 5.11 desert free pitch one day! 5.10+, A0, 60m.
Pitch #2: Continue up the disappearing crack passing an optional two-bolt belay towards a roof, where a bolt ladder trends out right and up until a small crack appears around the corner that allows some gear and piton placements eventually reaching a ledge with a two-bolt belay. A0-A1.30m.
Pitch #3: From the ledge, climb past a bolt up a prow until the angle steepens and the rock becomes softer. Pass about 8 bolts to a crack and slabby bulgy manuevers to wiggle over the summit cap rock and a two-bolt belay. 5.9, A1. 60m.
Go to the south side of the tower top after signing in the summit register and rappel La Piñata. Be sure to make sure the pull is OK as a rope did become stuck here during the FA (also in the middle of the night!). It was subsequently cut and abandoned. From the huge ledge in the middle of La Piñata, you may also choose to descend via another rappel station on the north side of that ledge.
LocationOn the north side of El Sombrero...the line will be obvious.
Use caution with the devious approach up the north spur talus slope to Mexican Mountain. Allow at least an hour.