Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: James Garrett and Paul Ross, 18 April 2001
Page Views: 1,504 total · 11/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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A very impressive dihedral intersects the North side of El Sombrero. This was first attempted by numerous parties over a two year period of time including Franziska Garrett, George Rosenthal, Layne Potter, and Chris Donharl...4 attempts... before completing it with Paul. Fixed ropes had been left to the top of the first pitch.

Pitch #1: Layback a hand crack up a flake that trends right into the dihedral. Continue up the hand crack which widens until it ends and climb up a faint ledgy section until a three-bolt belay ledge. Will be a phenomenal 5.11 desert free pitch one day! 5.10+, A0, 60m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the disappearing crack passing an optional two-bolt belay towards a roof, where a bolt ladder trends out right and up until a small crack appears around the corner that allows some gear and piton placements eventually reaching a ledge with a two-bolt belay. A0-A1.30m.

Pitch #3: From the ledge, climb past a bolt up a prow until the angle steepens and the rock becomes softer. Pass about 8 bolts to a crack and slabby bulgy manuevers to wiggle over the summit cap rock and a two-bolt belay. 5.9, A1. 60m.

Go to the south side of the tower top after signing in the summit register and rappel La Piñata. Be sure to make sure the pull is OK as a rope did become stuck here during the FA (also in the middle of the night!). It was subsequently cut and abandoned. From the huge ledge in the middle of La Piñata, you may also choose to descend via another rappel station on the north side of that ledge.


On the north side of El Sombrero...the line will be obvious.
Use caution with the devious approach up the north spur talus slope to Mexican Mountain. Allow at least an hour.


QDs, Set of Camalots with many extra #1-#3 for the first pitch, tie offs, keyhole hangers(many bolts on Pitch #2 were left without hangers), Hooks,