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Routes in Sunshine Face - Left Side

B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caliente T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chisholm Trail T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clockwork Orange T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Domestic Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Euphoria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Hit It, Ethel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paisano Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout in Reverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Someone You're Not T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Source, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tar and Feathers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yaniro's Arch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Bachar, 1978
Page Views: 2,313 total · 20/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Superb climbing on great rock.

Pitch 1: Scramble up easy climbing and belay at a bolt anchor (40' left of Paisano Chimney). A short crack leads to 5.10c face climbing that takes you to the black intrusion. A series of difficult reaches presents the crux of the pitch on the intrusion. Above the crux, runout 5.10d climbing takes one into a left leaning arch. A belay may be set up in the arch using a bolt plus gear. Pitch 2: 5.10c climbing follows the arch to it's end, then up the easy face. A variation can also be done to the second pitch: from the belay step down a few moves, then pull over the arch and climb just above the lip of the arch (10d), tending left.

Protection

Bolts, thin gear to 2"

Photos

There's an 11d direct start to this, put up in 2012 according to the new guide book. Has anyone ever tried going left at the Crux? Looks easier. Oct 28, 2017
On Supertopo, Johnny says that the first bolt was put in by Ivan (Bud) Couch. Long and Harrison added add'l bolts. Mar 23, 2017
As much as we would have liked to have discovered/started Caliente, the fact is that we didn't. I'm not really sure how that inaccuracy came about, I think that perhaps Rick Accomazzo was under the impression that we were responsible. The bolts on the initial slab, as well as the crux intrusion bolt, were placed by John Long and Richard Harrison. Sep 8, 2009
"Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell had spotted this line and put in the first few bolts" Sep 5, 2009
The rating on this route has gone through some interesting transitions. Initially, I think Bachar called it 11+. Not.

When I first did it, it had managed to evolve to 12a (a really stout one) where it stayed for several years. In the above post it's referenced as 12b. The current guide calls it 12c, hence, the rating it has on this description.

Whatever. If the grade is within a letter or two it's good to go. You can decide the minutia of the letters for yourself.

There was a thread on ST shortly after Bachars death that discussed this route.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Jul 30, 2009
"All told, I think Caliente (5.12b) is the finest route at Suicide. You clip a bolt and cast off; and 15 feet out there's no fooling anyone. Even so, nearly 10 years after John Bachar's on-sight, first ascent, which included a long whistler, you can see poltroons inspecting the crux by toprope. Maybe in hopes of catching up with the French.

Next time you meet someone claiming that American standards are a myth, give him a roadmap to Idyllwild. There is little fanfare, and the routes are not touted as world breakers. But ever so quietly, some pretty stiff stuff has gone up. Give it a look. "

John Long Jul 29, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Among the great climbs at Suicide, Valhalla, Insomnia and New Gen, Caliente stands out as way good. A real classic with just enough runout to make you quiver- four big stars. Jul 8, 2008