Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: John Bachar, 1978
Page Views: 4,072 total · 21/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Superb climbing on great rock.

Pitch 1: Scramble up easy 5th class climbing and belay on a ledge at a 2 bolt anchor (40' left of Paisano Chimney). A short crack leads to 5.10c face climbing that takes you to the black inclusion. A series of reaches presents the crux of the pitch on the inclusion. Above the crux, runout 5.10d climbing takes one into a left leaning arch that contains a 2 bolt ring equipped belay.

Pitch 2: 5.10c climbing follows the arch to it's end, then up the easy face. A variation can also be done to the second pitch: from the belay step down a few moves, then pull over the arch and climb just above the lip of the arch (10d), tending left.

It is also possible to do this as a one pitch route, but rope drag factors in.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, thin gear to 2"