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Routes in Sunshine Face - Left Side

B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caliente T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chisholm Trail T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clockwork Orange T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Domestic Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Euphoria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Hit It, Ethel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paisano Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout in Reverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Someone You're Not T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Source, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tar and Feathers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yaniro's Arch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ivan Couch, Mike Cohen, and Bob Kamps
Page Views: 542 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 23, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Despite the name, you won't be doing much chimneying on this climb. It goes up a wide, very shallow slot on good rock, giving a full pitch of sustained and varied climbing. This route is in the sun all day. Getting up to the base of the climb requires a few 5.5 moves that many people do unroped.

Protection

standard rack with a good selection of wired nuts

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Finally sent this, yep, used triples in the small stuff. Pretty classic Suicide stuff ;) May 11, 2015
Tradiban  
 
I have twice now bailed off this thing. First because the initial chimney was insecure and second because I ran out of suitable gear 3/4 up. The gear is all there but I swear I could have used triples of .3 to 1 C4. I used a #4 and #5 as well. Everything is flaring and it certainly doesn't inspire confidence in your moves or gear. Apr 8, 2015