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Routes in Sunshine Face - Left Side

B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caliente T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chisholm Trail T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clockwork Orange T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Domestic Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Euphoria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Hit It, Ethel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paisano Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout in Reverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Someone You're Not T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Source, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tar and Feathers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yaniro's Arch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Fred Zeil and Tim Powell, 1978
Page Views: 1,608 total, 14/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Follow discontinuous thin cracks (10d) onto the face above (11a). Kind of strange climbing that proves to be quite entertaining, with a little bit of run-out climbing. A high quality route on good rock.

Location

Scramble up to the top of the ledges left of the start of Caliente (just right of B.C.'s Ouch Chimney).

Protection

Bolts, thin gear, cams to 1.5". Maybe something around 2" for the belay.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11a PG13
Tradiban  
  5.11a PG13
Hidden Gem! Three bolts now for the initial 5.10d section, run out to bolt #4, distinct 5.11 crux at bolt#5. If you don't feel like 5.11 slab, traverse right at bolt #3 up a ramp to two bolts and then a bolted anchor in a left facing corner, finish on Caliente (10c 2nd pitch), bolts for rap to the right. Apr 23, 2016