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Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: N. Beidleman, T. Perkins 2002
Page Views: 1,191 total · 10/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great route with plenty of good pro and sustained challenging climbing throughout. Start by mantling up onto a ledge (move protected by a bolt). Climb a steep strenuous crack with good pro and mantel again onto another sloping ledge. Good wires protect the last crux dihedral and a final bolt protects the exit moves to the anchor.

The guidebook gives this route 12a but I didn't feel it was that difficult. A consensus grade should narrow it down, but I felt it was somewhere around 11c/d.

Location

This is the first route you see on Lincoln Creek Cliff on the far left end of the crag.

Protection

This is a mixed route with two bolts and gear to 2". Bring some small to medium stoppers also. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Amos Whiting
Basalt, Colorado
 
Amos Whiting   Basalt, Colorado
 
I feel like this route is pass .12a. With a ledge fall getting to the second bolt. I'm not a big fan. I'd say 1 star Jul 12, 2015
D-Storm
  5.11d
D-Storm  
  5.11d
This compact route has it all – tricky mantels, burly liebacks, and steep tip-locks capped with a pumpy traverse and another mantel! I underestimated how hard it would be before I onsighted this yesterday in slightly wet conditions. It felt every bit of 12a then, but obviously my experience isn't the benchmark. Nonetheless, this route will test your repertoire of skills and power. Super fun! Aug 12, 2013

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