Dean's Day Off
Avg: 3.9 from 9 votes
Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff
|Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft|
|FA:||Henry Barber, Steve Shea, belayed by a young Pat Adams|
|Page Views:||2,188 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? It is one of the state's classic, must-do, single pitches at the grade.
Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!
With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.
I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.
Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.
The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!
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