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Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Henry Barber, Steve Shea, belayed by a young Pat Adams
Page Views: 2,188 total, 18/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a historically proud ascent.... Aren't all of his routes, though? It is one of the state's classic, must-do, single pitches at the grade.

Barefoot and with only funky nuts!! Oh, and a solid wit and BIG balls!

With sticky rubber shoes, it's still a challenge, but modern gear makes it much safer, for sure.

I wish I could give it the full 4 stars it deserves. Its only blight (unless I didn't follow the FFA true line) is the rotten chimney for the 1st 1/3 of its length. Perhaps Henry followed the face to its left, but I entered the nasty (but easy) chimney.

Exit to a smooth section of slab and thin crack. Place small but good brass action, and tiptoe up a 5.11 balance crux with a slight runout. The wall steepens considerably here, and the crack widens to accept fingers. Get good gear of TCU/Alien, power up with cool layaways and jams and crimps, and don't stop till you get to the top. A two bolt rap anchor is at a distance of 35m from the ground.

The upper 2/3rds of the route is very classic and truly inspiring to know in what style it went up!!

Protection

Brass nuts (2-4 RP type sizes), a few sm/med wired nuts, #0-3 TCU-size cams will sew up the crux headwall, a couple larger cams, and a 70m! rope.

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Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
  5.12a PG13
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
  5.12a PG13
Climb the face to the left of the chimney. It's a great variation that adds a little face spice to warn of the climb ahead. Beta spoiler...Jeff "Mr. Spearhead" Giddings and I have a few recommendations.

For the moves at the start of the high slab and moving into the second crack, there are two nice slots (small but perfect) for a BD C3 purple 00, (placed right, it fits very snugly and would hold a fall) followed by a gray (000) to protect the moves into what I considered the crux. This keeps gear just a couple of feet below you and prevents any serious runouts. Your next gear is a green Totem (or Alien) in a vertical crack backed up by a green HB offset nut in small slot out to the left and above the green cam. All you need above this is a blue Totem and purple Metolius Mastercam (or equivalent). Email me if you want to know the rack for the entire climb. Jun 26, 2016
Wrong again. Henry lead it barefoot with Steve Shea second and Pat Adams third. We all climbed the chimney. It was an old aid climb. The chimney is not that bad! SS BTW Henry used small wires and a crack n up or two. Jun 17, 2011
The route was very clean, except for the dirty chimney, when I did it 7 or 8 years ago. Sep 6, 2007