Lincoln Creek Cliff Rock Climbing
Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff
|Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Page Views:||6,090 total, 49/month|
|Shared By:||Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
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DescriptionThis is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.
Getting ThereBest directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.
The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.
Per D-Storm: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.
Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Creek Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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