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GPS: 39.11649, -106.69374
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.

Getting There Suggest change

Best directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.

The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.

Per D F: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: Lincoln Creek Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Creek Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Cardo's Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Haywire
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Peruvian Flake
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Cramper
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Honest Abe
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 10
Dean's Day Off
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cardo's Corner
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Haywire
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peruvian Flake
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cramper
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Honest Abe
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Dean's Day Off
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lincoln Creek Cliff »

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