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Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 6, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.

Getting There

Best directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.

The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.

Per D-Storm: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Creek Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardo's Corner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian Flake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cramper
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Honest Abe
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dean's Day Off
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cardo's Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peruvian Flake 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cramper 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Honest Abe 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Dean's Day Off 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
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Photos

lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
We added several new cairns to the approach trail. From the main, Sunset Cliff trail, turn right before you get to the first big boulderfield. If you pass a large boulder on your direct right, you have gone too far. The trail begins behind this boulder. Follow cairns. 20 minute approach. Jul 10, 2017
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow. Jun 25, 2013
D-Storm  
Finally found my way over to this cliff. Park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff. Jun 24, 2013
D-Storm  
To write "see guidebook for directions" defeats a major purpose of this site — I don't have a guidebook and am looking for the info here! Thanks for nothing. I still don't know how to get to this cliff. I bring this up so people will be better about it in future posts. Sep 15, 2010

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