Description

This is a wide stretch of quality rock with maybe a dozen older trad and mixed routes and a couple newer sport lines. Perhaps the earliest and definitely most historic route here is Henry Barber's Dean's Day Off.

Getting There

Best directions will be had in Tom Perkins' guidebook.

The vast majority of the crags are on the left (South) side of the road as you drive up the pass, while Lincoln Creek, a valley branching off to the Southeast from the main highway, offers good climbing as well.

Per D-Storm: park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff.

Per BJ Sbarra: There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow.

9 Total Climbs

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Location: Lincoln Creek Cliff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lincoln Creek Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Landslide
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Cardo's Corner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Peruvian Flake
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Cramper
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Honest Abe
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 9
Dean's Day Off
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Landslide
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cardo's Corner
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Peruvian Flake
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cramper
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Honest Abe
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Dean's Day Off
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lincoln Creek Cliff »

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Photos

D-Storm  
To write "see guidebook for directions" defeats a major purpose of this site — I don't have a guidebook and am looking for the info here! Thanks for nothing. I still don't know how to get to this cliff. I bring this up so people will be better about it in future posts. Sep 15, 2010
D-Storm  
Finally found my way over to this cliff. Park at the bridge for Lincoln Creek Road. Walk over the bridge, and walk upstream for a couple hundred yards until an obvious trail branches uphill to the right. The trail forks a couple times after reaching a boulderfield – stay right, going uphill. You'll hike under the Sunset Cliff – which has a prominent, black streak with a bolted 5.10 called "I'll be Black" – and head back downhill (steep!). The trail levels out and takes you to the base of Lincoln Creek Cliff. Jun 24, 2013
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
There's actually also a shortcut that goes straight across the hill side from the boulderfield, so you don't have to climb up to and then down from Sunset. Right before you start climbing up the hill out of the boulders, look for cairns leading right. It's a bit rough in spots but pretty easy to follow. Jun 25, 2013
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
We added several new cairns to the approach trail. From the main, Sunset Cliff trail, turn right before you get to the first big boulderfield. If you pass a large boulder on your direct right, you have gone too far. The trail begins behind this boulder. Follow cairns. 20 minute approach. Jul 10, 2017