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Routes in Lincoln Creek Cliff

Cardo's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cramper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dad's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dean's Day Off T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Haywire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honest Abe T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Landslide T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauerkraut T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: L. Dawson, T. Merrill, 1974
Page Views: 1,576 total, 14/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route doesn't look very spectacular from the ground, but it's definitely worth getting on. Start in a large chimney to the left of the dihedral and climb the face on the right side of the chimney to access the corner. Stem, jam and layback your way up the corner as it gets steeper and steeper until you reach the top. Great climbing and longer than it looks.

A 60m rope will just get you down if your belayer stays up in the chimney.

Location

Cardo's Corner is located to the right of Dean's Day Off in a large, left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Full rack to 2". 2 bolt anchor at top.

Photos

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nick.laws  
 
I was able to get a tri-cam in and a sling over one of the horns for the traverse in to the start of the climb, but I was using double ropes so drag was of no concern. I highly recommend getting something in to protect the start, because last year someone did fall off of this with only one cam in to the crack after the traverse/start and it came out. She survived, but there were lots of broken bones. Jul 19, 2010
Lynn S  
Excellent route, climb up and right out of the chimney (just above the bush) to the beautiful corner. Great gear once you get into the corner. There seemed to be no worthwhile gear until you get into the actual corner, by then you are a ways off the ground.

One of the best 9s I have done on the Pass. Farther left is Landslide and fun 5.7. Aug 28, 2008