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Routes in Bulo Point

Atomic Dust Buster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barking Spider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Market Organ Donor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulo Dancing T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DaKine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Call Me Ishmael S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Drawin' A Blank S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Meatball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Am Not The Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Inversion Excursion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jet Stream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Wind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nook and Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuke the Gay Whales for Jesus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raiders of the Lost Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of Yoda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scene of the Crime T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Separated at Birth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silence of the Cams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,303 total · 18/month
Shared By: ARob on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route is described as the best route at Bulo Point and I am not one to argue. This route ascends the left side of the central spine at the main area. If there is one word to describe this long, airy, route it is "relentless." The first clip is a good distance off the ground but it's a pretty simple scramble to get to it. From there, step out onto the detached flake (awkward) and start heading up. There is rarely a good place to take a brake and the exposure is heady. The route takes you over three or four bulges that each act like their own crux, with an odd, but not the hardest one, coming at the top.

Location

Head to the bottom of the crag, the trail forks right and down hill up top. Follow this around and pass a couple spires and come to the "Main Area" with the fortified belay areas. Jet Stream and Wind are on the tall central pillar with the orange lichen.

Protection

9 Bolts plus top anchors. A guy who was out there said you could hang a rope from the top by rock hopping up top but that looked totally crazy. We warmed up on the enjoyable 5.8 "Jet Wind" which shares the first bolt and heads right and then switched the rope over to Jet Stream's anchor.

Photos

Actually its possible to set up a top rope on Jet Stream without too much trouble. From the upper trail, walk out onto the higher rock to the left (when looking out) of the top of Jet Stream and then find the anchor bolts that are for some of the climbs that descend into the gully. From these bolts you can set up a rappel to safely get across the chasm and onto the rock where the Jet Stream anchor bolts are located. From here you can pull you rope and set up a rappel down to the bottom of Jet Stream. Now you have a top rope. Jul 28, 2008
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.9
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.9
Can someone explain how an 80 foot sport route can be a grade V? Sep 10, 2009
Richard Denker
Portland OR
  5.9+
Richard Denker   Portland OR
  5.9+
A difficult 5.9+, but a very good climb. However I think Jet Wind is a much better climb.

Though different anchors it shares the same lunch spot as Jet Wind. Jun 11, 2012
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
5.10b
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
5.10b
This route is NOT 5.9. Rumor has it that it was downgraded from the original 5.10- grade by an unknown person. Following the bolts is a solid 5.10b IMO. If you deviate about 10' to the right hear the top roof, it would be about a 5.9. A hard 5.9 at that, as the first crux is a solid 5.10a.
FYI Sep 24, 2014
cconradd
Washougal, WA
  5.10a
cconradd   Washougal, WA
  5.10a
The anchors are looking sketchy as of 9/27/14. Both are spinners, but it does not appear that the bolts have backed off, I think they might have pulled a little? Both bolts are sort of bendy when weight is applied.

I'm not an expert on fixed pro by any means, but this anchor worried me. Maybe next time someone with more experience is out there they can take a look. Sep 28, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
5.10b
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
5.10b
I'm replacing a bunch of bolts soon at French's Dome and Broughtons Bluff, should have a few extra. I'll take a look at the anchors and see about replacing them. Sep 28, 2014
Cam Hook
Portland
  5.10a/b
Cam Hook   Portland
  5.10a/b
Really fun sustained climbing for the grade (5.10a perhaps). Decent rest opportunities and great views from the top! Love the route!

Micah, The anchors were sketchy as of June 14th 2015. Hangers and bolts were rusty and moved/flexed when weighted. I traversed/climbed over to and rapped off of Jet Wind's anchors about 5-10 feet right of Jet Stream. IMO the anchors should be replaced as soon as possible. Thank you! Jun 17, 2015
Vince Schreck
Portland, OR
Vince Schreck   Portland, OR
Climbed this route 6/28/2015. I don't think the anchor has been changed out, but it didn't alarm me.

I did pretty much what Bruce suggested to access these climbs from the top. I setup a rappel from the last set of anchors along the top. I equalized a couple of cams to redirect off the anchor. Without doing that, the rap direction is not quite the right angle.

As far as the route, yes, I agree with everyone that the route is sort of a sandbag at 5.9. If you follow the bolt line at the first bulge (left side of the arete) straight over the roof, it's incredibly thin and overhanging. I think it felt like hard 5.10 (c or d). I think the secret is to head left, clip the bolt, and then pull back around the arete to the right. It was a really hard boulder problem. Even not heading straight up over the bolt, it was still 5.10 a or b.

Then, at the end, it was very awkward. Since I feel better and more secure in cracks, I jammed the left-leaning crack, which had to be 5.10a.

I agree that it's a relentless climb. It's long, and it's rarely a cakewalk. Jun 29, 2015
Bill 1552
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Bill 1552   Portland, OR
  5.9+
8/23/15, anchors are a bit tired. Can easily traverse to Jet Wind's anchor which is bomber. Aug 29, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
The last lead bolt seems to indicate that you're supposed to end at the Jet Wind anchors. I agree that the Jet Stream anchors look pretty bad, but that could be said about many others in this area. To be clear: they should be rebolted, as should many of the lead bolts. If top-roping, use a long runner for the last bolt.

Also, if there is a party on Jet Stream, you can start up Nook & Cranny and traverse right around the arete onto the face at the second or third quick-draw. This might actually be a more fun way to start it anyway. Jun 25, 2018
Gwillim
Milwaukie, Or
5.10a
Gwillim   Milwaukie, Or
5.10a
As of July 4th 2018, anchors are pretty nasty. The bolts themselves aren't loose, but the hangers are both completely loose and the bolts both have a fair amount of rust. It's a great climb, I hope someone has the chance to rebolt it soon!?

I agree with Nate's comment about starting in the Nooks crack. That was fun and the traverse over was stiffer than the rest of the climb, not sure if it would bump it out of the 10a range, but a couple of our climbers took TR falls there who can normally climb 10a without issue. I thought it was a lot of fun. The face start on right looked a little bland anyhow, and there were people there constantly. Jul 5, 2018

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