This route is described as the best route at Bulo Point and I am not one to argue. This route ascends the left side of the central spine at the main area. If there is one word to describe this long, airy, route it is "relentless." The first clip is a good distance off the ground but it's a pretty simple scramble to get to it. From there, step out onto the detached flake (awkward) and start heading up. There is rarely a good place to take a break and the exposure is heady. The route takes you over three or four bulges that each act like their own crux, with an odd, but not the hardest one, coming at the top.
Head to the bottom of the crag, the trail forks right and down hill up top. Follow this around and pass a couple spires and come to the "Main Area" with the fortified belay areas. Jet Stream and Wind are on the tall central pillar with the orange lichen.
9 Bolts plus top anchors with mussy hooks. A guy who was out there said you could hang a rope from the top by rock hopping up top but that looked totally crazy. We warmed up on the enjoyable 5.8 "Jet Wind" which shares the first bolt and heads right and then switched the rope over to Jet Stream's anchor.
PDX, OR
Portland OR
Though different anchors it shares the same lunch spot as Jet Wind. Jun 11, 2012
Charlotte, NC
FYI Sep 24, 2014
Dayton, NV
I'm not an expert on fixed pro by any means, but this anchor worried me. Maybe next time someone with more experience is out there they can take a look. Sep 28, 2014
Charlotte, NC
Portland
Micah, The anchors were sketchy as of June 14th 2015. Hangers and bolts were rusty and moved/flexed when weighted. I traversed/climbed over to and rapped off of Jet Wind's anchors about 5-10 feet right of Jet Stream. IMO the anchors should be replaced as soon as possible. Thank you! Jun 17, 2015
Portland, OR
I did pretty much what Bruce suggested to access these climbs from the top. I setup a rappel from the last set of anchors along the top. I equalized a couple of cams to redirect off the anchor. Without doing that, the rap direction is not quite the right angle.
As far as the route, yes, I agree with everyone that the route is sort of a sandbag at 5.9. If you follow the bolt line at the first bulge (left side of the arete) straight over the roof, it's incredibly thin and overhanging. I think it felt like hard 5.10 (c or d). I think the secret is to head left, clip the bolt, and then pull back around the arete to the right. It was a really hard boulder problem. Even not heading straight up over the bolt, it was still 5.10 a or b.
Then, at the end, it was very awkward. Since I feel better and more secure in cracks, I jammed the left-leaning crack, which had to be 5.10a.
I agree that it's a relentless climb. It's long, and it's rarely a cakewalk. Jun 29, 2015
Also, if there is a party on Jet Stream, you can start up Nook & Cranny and traverse right around the arete onto the face at the second or third quick-draw. This might actually be a more fun way to start it anyway. Jun 25, 2018
Milwaukie, Or
I agree with Nate's comment about starting in the Nooks crack. That was fun and the traverse over was stiffer than the rest of the climb, not sure if it would bump it out of the 10a range, but a couple of our climbers took TR falls there who can normally climb 10a without issue. I thought it was a lot of fun. The face start on right looked a little bland anyhow, and there were people there constantly. Jul 5, 2018
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
This route was a joy and a must-do at this crag!
As of Aug 17, 2019, the anchors are still in bad shape, and I just went right and used Jet Wind's anchors instead. Aug 25, 2019
Vancouver, WA