Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,404 total · 11/month
Shared By: ARob on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Really fun route. Start in the tiny alcove at the bottom and make some fun little chimney moves to get yourself into position to get over the ceiling / buldge. Use good holds and heel hook to power through the crux. The rest is a really enjoyable 5.7 face to top chains that the 10b shares next to it.

Location

As you are heading down the trail along the bottom of the crag, this is one of the last routes you come to. It's the last big rock pillar that's right on the trail and it kind of has this double alcove thing at the bottom with a ceiling on the left side (which is the crux of the 10b to the left).

Protection

Several bolts up top with a top chain. The first bolt is just above the crux but cannot be reached until you pull through, so if you blow that you have a pretty rough landing. Do yourself a favor and use a stick clip or supplament below the bolt with some medium size gear.

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Ebb Ebbing
Vancouver, WA
  5.9
Ebb Ebbing   Vancouver, WA
  5.9
With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.

Safety rating may be more like PG13 without the first bolt clipped or some other pro placed prior to attempting the crux. Jul 15, 2010
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.9
This route needs another bolt at the start. Starting up to the left is not well protected either and causes heinous rope drag. The wider crack to the right is fun but puts you onto the face much higher - I ended up clipping the second bolt then lowering down to figure out how to do the start. It's basically a boulder move off the ground, then around the roof using the crack. The third bolt on this route is way out-of-line with the intuitive holds. I accidentally skipped it, but didn't feel unsafe. This section is very easy. Unprotected bouldery moves to an easy slab. How does this route get more than one star? Jun 25, 2018
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
No extra bolt at the start needed. I put a cam in on the crack on the left and then stood on the ledge directly below the first bolt climbed up, put 1 more can in hanging off jugs and pulled up to clip the bolt. I also went left at the 3rd bolt and put a #2 in a crack and then cut back right Aug 26, 2018