Black Market Organ Donor [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2.1 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,332 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Bruce Eng on Jul 28, 2008|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
Description [Suggest Change]
It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.
Location [Suggest Change]
This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.
Protection [Suggest Change]
There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.