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Routes in Bulo Point

Atomic Dust Buster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barking Spider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Market Organ Donor S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulo Dancing T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
DaKine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Call Me Ishmael S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Drawin' A Blank S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Meatball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Am Not The Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Inversion Excursion S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Jet Stream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Wind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nook and Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nuke the Gay Whales for Jesus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raiders of the Lost Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of Yoda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scene of the Crime T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Separated at Birth S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Silence of the Cams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,445 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bruce Eng on Jul 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.

Location

This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.

Protection

There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.

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Plaidman
Portland, Oregon
5.9 R
Plaidman   Portland, Oregon
5.9 R
Way hard of the left. I would use the right side option for the start. Aug 15, 2009
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
I climbed this route 9/09 without trad pro. The crux is easily protected by clipping the bolt above the ledge/nook (where there is evidence of a raptor nest). The climb is run-out about 15-20 feet before and after this, but the climbing is, at a liberal estimation, 5.4. Starting on the left at the bottom seemed to me the most logical way to go. Just my opinion. Aug 29, 2010
dmPete
  5.10a
dmPete  
  5.10a
I'm not sure I understand the PG13 and R ratings on this route. Sure, there's a huge distance between the third and fourth bolt that could result in serious injury if the climber falls...but there are plenty of good places to plug a 1" or 2" cam to protect the moves up to that bolt. If this climb were listed as a mixed gear route, I think there wouldn't be much debate about the safety of this climb. Aug 24, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
Climbed this again after eight years. Not a PG13 or R. Again did the left start. Stemming up the right side is cool, but doesn't put you into a good position to clip the first bolt. Bring a couple of cams if you really need to protect those easy sections. If you're climbing 5.9+, you won't need them though. The crux move through the overhang is very awkward. Once at the anchor, lower off into the gully and do Flying Meatballs - my third favorite climb behind Jet Wind/Stream. Jun 25, 2018
John Brown  
 
ooo you like some spice! the first two clips are cruxy - and the arete transition you are thanking ### for the high bolt that is accessible trying to stand in the awkward roof area. doesn't look like much ...then you hop on and be like wtf!?!? Jul 5, 2018
Gwillim
Milwaukie, Or
5.9
Gwillim   Milwaukie, Or
5.9
I found the left side start to be super fun and more thought provoking than the top crux. I thought the top crux was pretty straight-forward with a solid hand jam and some footwork (albeit I'm 6'4", so maybe it's a height thing). I put a nut in at some point but the run-outs weren't difficult climbing so it's just a comfort level thing IMO. Jul 5, 2018

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