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Routes in Bulo Point

Atomic Dust Buster S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Barking Spider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Market Organ Donor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
DaKind T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Call Me Ishmael S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Drawin' A Blank S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Meatball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Am Not The Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Inversion Excursion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jet Stream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jet Wind S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nook and Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Raiders of the Lost Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of Yoda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scene of the Crime S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Separated at Birth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silence of the Cams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,307 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bruce Eng on Jul 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.

Location

This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.

Protection

There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.

Photos

dmPete
  5.10a
dmPete  
  5.10a
I'm not sure I understand the PG13 and R ratings on this route. Sure, there's a huge distance between the third and fourth bolt that could result in serious injury if the climber falls...but there are plenty of good places to plug a 1" or 2" cam to protect the moves up to that bolt. If this climb were listed as a mixed gear route, I think there wouldn't be much debate about the safety of this climb. Aug 24, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
I climbed this route 9/09 without trad pro. The crux is easily protected by clipping the bolt above the ledge/nook (where there is evidence of a raptor nest). The climb is run-out about 15-20 feet before and after this, but the climbing is, at a liberal estimation, 5.4. Starting on the left at the bottom seemed to me the most logical way to go. Just my opinion. Aug 29, 2010
Plaidman
Portland, Oregon
5.9 R
Plaidman   Portland, Oregon
5.9 R
Way hard of the left. I would use the right side option for the start. Aug 15, 2009