5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m)|
|Page Views:||1,842 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Willig on Jun 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This route is on the south side of Scorpio Dome. It offers a little bit of everything. Start with some smearing to get off the ground. Hands and offwidth make up the bulk of the climb finishing with a thin finger crack and smear to the anchors. If you like offwidth, you'll love this climb. If you're new to offwidth technique, this route will definitely be a challenge. There's plenty of arm-barring and hand stacking in the chimney. A #4 Camalot on a runner makes for perfect pro in the chimney since it tapers down in the back.
Rack up to a #4 Camalot. You could probably use two in the chimney if you want to be well protected during the offwidth. There are 2 bolts at the top. You may want to bring a little extra webbing to beef them up. Since this route is around 130', you'll need 2 ropes to get down. A 70m rope MAY just barely get you down, but I'm not sure. A 60m DEFINITELY WILL NOT. You can see a fixed stopper about 35' off the deck where someone tried to rappel on a single 60m and then had to do a second rap....