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Routes in Scorpio Dome

Andromeda Strain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arcturus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Carter Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvey's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Herman's Head T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scorpio Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Jr. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sting, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 5.10c T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 113 total · 7/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Nov 6, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is another overlooked climb at Scorpio Dome, but it is still an enjoyable warm-up. Almost all the moves are laybacking up, but a few face moves are available. The rock is rough, and the crack dirty and awkward in angle. The crux is near the top where the crack rounds, and it is hard to pull with smeared feet. The start has a crux trying to get through the dang bush, and the rock is pretty rotten. Near the summit, the rock quality goes way down, and it is hollow or super sharp.

Location

As you walk from the road about 255', this climb is the first one you will see on the wall. It is right above the fire pit, and the start is on top of the big block. You can use the anchors, and rappel off, or you can choose to walk off. There is one bolt at the summit, but there is poor protection. The walk off has some class 4 moves down, on rotten rock. It looks solid, but is very hollow and weak.

If you want to set up a top rope, one can lower off the bolt at the summit, to gain the anchors.

Protection

Bring the following Camalots: 1 #6, 3 #4s, 2 #3s, and 2 #2s. A #0.5 or 0.75 will protect the last little bit if you choose to go to the summit. There two double ring anchors on the face just below the summit.

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