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Routes in Scorpio Dome

Andromeda Strain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arcturus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Carter Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvey's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Herman's Head T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scorpio Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Jr. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sting, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 5.10c T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Kerry Gunter (?)
Page Views: 129 total, 10/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Nov 7, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Located about 40 feet right of Scorpio Crack is this thin crack with an orange streak. However, this climb is hidden from the Scorpio ledge. It is best viewed from the base area near Harvey's Crack.

The crack works its way up a right-facing corner and then traverse left under a roof. The first 70 to 80 feet are the most difficult, working your way up the fingertip crack (the face climb to the crack is scary). Once at the roof, work your way left on easier terrain. Be mindful of loose rock and gravel, as your belayer will feel it!

Location

There are two ways to gain the crack.

The recommended way is to gain the Scorpio ledge, and then work your way right and do a tricky downclimb to the small ledge below the crack. There are two small boulders that block the path, and the combination of the loose gravel and 160 feet of slab below make it exciting. *It might be wise to go on belay to do this.

Another variation is to go all the way to the base area, and then work your way up broken rock to the ledge. This would add an extra pitch to the climb though.

To get down, downclimb the steep gully on the north face.

Protection

This crack takes lots of small gear for the first part and then anything up to 3". There are no fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

slim

  5.11b/c
slim    
  5.11b/c
Good, challenging route. I think Kerry Gunter may have been one of the FA folks. Nov 8, 2016