Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: N/A
Page Views: 926 total · 10/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is the other really long route at Scorpio Dome. It is to the right of Orion crack and looks intimidating. This crack is much wider and more sustained than Harvey's Crack.

P1. From the base of the crack, take the leftmost crack up to the right at an okay ledge near the top of a block where the crack funnels into one main crack. It is around 100 feet up, 5.9.

P2. Continue up the main crack to a hanging belay. This is around 100 to 120 feet long, 5.9+.

P3. This is the crux pitch at 10a. There is a slight bulge in the crack. At the top is a good belay stance, 80 to 90 feet.

P4. Continue climbing up for about 85 feet reaching a small alcove just shy of the sub-summit. This is a good spot to belay and not lose communication. The rock quality is okay, 5.9+.

P5. This is a tricky pitch. From the alcove, climb up the crack to a small sub-summit about 30 feet up. Then climb up the face to the actual summit. Protection is hard to find.

Go down the north face scramble. *It would be wise to stay tied in, until everyone is safe.

Location Suggest change

This route is to the right of Orion and is the major crack that goes all the way to the summit. Follow the same path as you would to get to the other climbs. There are no anchors at the summit. From the summit, scramble down the north face descent route.

Protection Suggest change

This climb takes a lot of big cams. Bring triples of #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, then doubles from #0.5 to #2 cams, and some stoppers.

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