Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Scorpio Dome

Andromeda Strain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arcturus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Carter Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvey's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Herman's Head T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lazy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scorpio Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Jr. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sting, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Unknown 5.10c T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown 5.8 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: N/A
Page Views: 127 total, 10/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Nov 9, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the other really long route at Scorpio Dome. It is to the right of Orion crack and looks intimidating. This crack is much wider and more sustained than Harvey's Crack.

P1. From the base of the crack, take the leftmost crack up to the right at an okay ledge near the top of a block where the crack funnels into one main crack. It is around 100 feet up, 5.9.

P2. Continue up the main crack to a hanging belay. This is around 100 to 120 feet long, 5.9+.

P3. This is the crux pitch at 10a. There is a slight bulge in the crack. At the top is a good belay stance, 80 to 90 feet.

P4. Continue climbing up for about 85 feet reaching a small alcove just shy of the sub-summit. This is a good spot to belay and not lose communication. The rock quality is okay, 5.9+.

P5. This is a tricky pitch. From the alcove, climb up the crack to a small sub-summit about 30 feet up. Then climb up the face to the actual summit. Protection is hard to find.

Go down the north face scramble. *It would be wise to stay tied in, until everyone is safe.

Location

This route is to the right of Orion and is the major crack that goes all the way to the summit. Follow the same path as you would to get to the other climbs. There are no anchors at the summit. From the summit, scramble down the north face descent route.

Protection

This climb takes a lot of big cams. Bring triples of #3, #4, and #5 Camalots, then doubles from #0.5 to #2 cams, and some stoppers.

Photos

0 Comments