Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 1,088 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Short hard crux of thin face moves down low with more moderate climbing to the anchors. There are some fun reaches getting to the shelf and then a bit more sustain pump above that.

Maybe one can aid to the 2nd bolt and then redpoint from there and call it 11a or so...

Location

left of "we're not in kansas anymore"

Protection

9 bolts + anchors up top

Photos

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Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.12-
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.12-
I am curious if anyone has done this route. I hate to be a number chaser, but I'd like to see if people really think it is 12a. Such a short crux. Don't hesitate to hurt my ego, I'd still be happy with 11d, don't see how it could possibly be any easier than that. I am just gonna go ahead and call it my first 12a redpoint. Jul 9, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Welcome to the club my brother! Short crux but thin and hard sort of bouldery. Way to go. Jul 10, 2008
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
Club dues are surprisingly reasonable. Just send $10 a month to JBak, PO box 11337, M11. You get a t-shirt and coffee mug. Jul 11, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.12-
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.12-
But no bumper sticker??? ...or are those only for the platinum elite members? ;) Jul 12, 2008
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Man, Joseph, you and I had opposite experiences on this climb. The crux is short, but it shut me down hard. I must have tried 15 times the other day, and never could get it on a redpoint attempt. I'd definitely take full credit for 5.12 if this was my first one. May 9, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.12-
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.12-
The crux took me about 20 tries at least to just figure out a possible sequence. After that, the redpoint only took about 4 tries. I love beautiful, short, and hard sequences that lead to big holds.

The secret for me was finding the perfect right foot hold for going to the sharp pocket. There is a tiny horizontal bit on the lower part of the prow like bulge that has the right hand sidepull on it.

Man I miss AZ... Lemmon rocks... Jun 18, 2009
Definitely 12a! Sep 6, 2010