Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Lara Wilkinson
Page Views: 267 total · 2/month
Shared By: Brigette Beasley on Jun 1, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Thin start to crimpy sidepulling. Hope you've got titanium fingertips.

Location

Tenth route from the left end of the Wall of Marching Munchkins. Shares the first bolt with Poppies Will Make Them Sleep, then heads right.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor.

Photos

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E IV
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
This route is not 10, or even 10+. Compared to all other 10s and 11s at Munchkinland, and other Mt Lemmon classics in the 10+/11- range (Steve's Arete, Arizona Flyaways, Just Do It), this is solid 11-, if not 11.
Unless of course I was completely dicking it up, but I was climbing with a couple other competent 5.11 leaders and they agreed.
Either way, don't hop on this thinking it would be a good warm-up. Jul 26, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11-
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11-
Could be we are all missing a hold but I would agree, it is harder than the rating given. Jul 27, 2009
Steven W. Johnson
Tucson, Arizona
Steven W. Johnson   Tucson, Arizona
Good to hear that the consensus is in the 11 zone. I've been on it the last three times out and haven't finished it with less than one fall. I'm not falling on the other tens in the area. Sep 23, 2009
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11a
The easiest way to climb this route is to clip the first bolt, touch but not clip the bolt of the climb to the left, and then traverse right to the second clip. The direct approach is significantly harder. Scott provided this beta so it conforms to the "original vision".

The route is sustained but there is no single move harder than the crux of Ruby Slippers. Or I could just be misremembering. May 8, 2010
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
After finally getting the redpoint on this (took 8-10 attempts over 5 years), I'm pretty convinced that it's a) actually really fun once you figure out where the holds are, but b) a sandbag even at 11a. Sep 9, 2018