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We're Not in Kansas Anymore
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Scott Ayers, Sather Ekblad, 1994 |
Page Views: | 1,502 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Joseph Stover on Sep 8, 2007 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Lots of very important footwork on this route. You gotta have your sequence nailed. Its a tricky one to figure out.
xxx Beware xxx Onsight Spoiling Beta:
Start on large foothold ledges with extremely thin hands. I mean THIN crimps, but the feet are so good that it is not too bad. Dance your way up a few moves to some sidepulls so that you are like a human pair of locking pliers. Crank hard with technical foot work to gain the 2nd clip. Then a tricky move right yields to you the hold that you want. Work your way up this sidepull system to a nice slot on the left by the 3rd bolt and get ready to sustain pump non-obvious moves to the 4th bolt. Then you are golden with 5.9/10 moves to the top.
xxx Beware xxx Onsight Spoiling Beta:
Start on large foothold ledges with extremely thin hands. I mean THIN crimps, but the feet are so good that it is not too bad. Dance your way up a few moves to some sidepulls so that you are like a human pair of locking pliers. Crank hard with technical foot work to gain the 2nd clip. Then a tricky move right yields to you the hold that you want. Work your way up this sidepull system to a nice slot on the left by the 3rd bolt and get ready to sustain pump non-obvious moves to the 4th bolt. Then you are golden with 5.9/10 moves to the top.
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