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Routes in Wall of the Marching Munchkins

...And Toto Too S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Because, Because, Because... S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Doctor of Thinkology S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
How Do You Like Them Apples S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
If I Only Had a Brain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
La Diablita S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lions and Tigers and Bears! S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lollipop Guild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Munchkinland S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pakistani Bus Plunge T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poppies Will Make Them Sleep S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ruby Slippers S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Steel Man Tin Edges S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Surrender Dorothy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's No Place Like Home S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tree Wing Circus S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Witch's Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
We're Not in Kansas Anymore S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Who's Your Wizard S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wicked Witch, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wiz, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Sather Ekblad, 1994
Page Views: 797 total, 6/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Sep 8, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Lots of very important footwork on this route. You gotta have your sequence nailed. Its a tricky one to figure out.

xxx Beware xxx Onsight Spoiling Beta:
Start on large foothold ledges with extremely thin hands. I mean THIN crimps, but the feet are so good that it is not too bad. Dance your way up a few moves to some sidepulls so that you are like a human pair of locking pliers. Crank hard with technical foot work to gain the 2nd clip. Then a tricky move right yields to you the hold that you want. Work your way up this sidepull system to a nice slot on the left by the 3rd bolt and get ready to sustain pump non-obvious moves to the 4th bolt. Then you are golden with 5.9/10 moves to the top.

Location

Between the 2 12a's on the main munchkin wall. 6th route from the left after the 2 easy(5.4, 5.5) routes in the Towers area. It starts on the large, (3 inch deep, 10 inch long) foothold about 2 ft off the ground.

Protection

7 bolts + chain/anchor up top

Photos

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Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
This route looked pretty sweet, but I couldn't figure out the sequence to get to the second bolt and my fingers couldn't take anymore. I will be back. Mar 31, 2013