Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown.... Probably not us (Nick&Kristina)
Page Views: 635 total · 10/month
Shared By: NickMartel on Oct 20, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

I have not seen any description of this either here on MP or in Squeezing The Lemmon II, although since Munchkinland is such a popular area I am sure others must have done it before...regardless here it is:
Between "Lions And Tigers And Bears!" and "There's No Place Like Home" is a right arching thin finger crack. Follow the crack up to the roof, step a foot or two left on the ledge below the roof then turn the roof and follow the intermittent cracks up to the anchors of "There's No Place Like Home".

Location

Follow the right arching crack between "Lions And Tigers And Bears!" and "There's No Place Like Home", the 2ed and 3rd bolted routes on the Wall Of The Marching Munchkins respectively.

Protection

Nuts and small to medium cams with chain anchors. Offset brass nuts were also helpful.

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
So if anyone knows the "real" name and FA party for this let me know and I will make the appropriate changes... A fun route and worth doing, especially if you brought a rack with you to do Pakistani.... or to climb on Troll Wall. Oct 20, 2013
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
What's the gear situation like on this route? Looking at it from the ground I was sure it would be R-rated but the description makes it seem otherwise? Jan 21, 2015
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.9+
IF my memory serves me it was a little fiddly but solid. I remember bringing all kinds of stuff like ball nuts and tri-cams and not using any of it. If you want the specific pieces used I can try to find the climbing journal it is in but basically what is in the description nuts, and small-medium cams (so maybe to Metolious orange #4?) and an offset brass that could have been done without. Also, you can probably bail by traversing onto the adjacent bolts if you really got in a bad situation. Like many gear routes on the mountain it was about using what was available but both Kristina, and especially I really like to sew it up and would have put PG or R if we though it was. Feb 4, 2015