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Routes in The Wasp Canyon

Bee Positive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheat Death V9 7C
Down the Rabbit Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Expensive Route, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
G Route, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pittsburgh Stubby T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Point of Entry T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raven's Haven, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scorpion T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starlight T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stinger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Storm T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stormy G, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
W.A.S.P. (What About Some Pesticide?) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
You are Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 5,443 total · 45/month
Shared By: phil wortmann on May 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description

This is the rightmost bolted route on Starlight Buttress, and left of RAVEN'S HAVEN corner. It is overhung and pumpy for the entirety. The crux is midway up, moving past crimpers to a juggy ledge. This is the most sustained route on the buttress and a must do. It is a straightforward route with a little of everything, from crimpers to jugs, and an occasional long reach/dyno.

Location

This is on the Starlight Buttress.

Protection

Save two long runners for the anchors.
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
Only 8 or 9 years ago this route was done - rumor has it that Glenn may possibly name it soon. Till then it is - The G Route. May 12, 2008
Fantastic route! May 13, 2008
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
For an extra pump/challenge:
Start all the way down in the hole.
Like way down, sit start style.

Rock is a little funny in places,
but man it makes it like 80 ft to the chains:) May 21, 2010
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Many thanks to the Thunder Ridge crew for the time and work put into these canyons. This place is the epitomy of fun climbing.... I haven't been able to stop thinking about the G Route since I first hopped on it! May 17, 2011
kirkadirka
Boulder
kirkadirka   Boulder
Just a heads up to those attempting/belaying below the route: the final jug near the ancors is definitely loose. I felt it flex as I climbed to the anchors and could wiggle it as I was lowering off and inspecting furhter. Be careful, and have the belayer be out of the way. It is a pretty sizeable chunk of rock. Mar 26, 2012
Great steep route. Easy 5.11 jug tugging to a hard boulder problem. Those are a few shitty holds up there for sure. I found that a nice left heelhook was the trick for me. Oct 20, 2016
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.12a/b
Crux is a desperate one-move reach if taller, 12a?; but a techy 2-3 move crux if too short to use the gigantic right root. Amazingly fun jugs before and after. Longer draw, 30cm (half length sling?) on the bolt behind the flake helps the rope run freely and prevents the rope from digging into the arete. Or rather, the arete digging into your rope! Sep 11, 2017
Dakota from North Dakota
Golden, CO
 
Dakota from North Dakota   Golden, CO
 
After flashing the other .12b to the left, Storm, I found myself stumped on the abrupt crux of this route. Ridiculously fun/easy jug bashing lead to a crux that took me maybe 10 or so tries to unlock with extreme effort. I thought maybe a hold broke or the consensus had rated it harder since the guidebook was published. I'm really surprised to see no one seems to have had a similar experience. Great fun nonetheless! Mar 3, 2018

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