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Routes in The Wasp Canyon

Bee Positive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheat Death V9 7C
Down the Rabbit Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Expensive Route, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
G Route, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Point of Entry T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raven's Haven, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scorpion T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starlight T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stinger T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Storm T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stormy G, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
W.A.S.P. (What About Some Pesticide?) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
You are Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin
Page Views: 2,444 total, 23/month
Shared By: Kevin Stricker on Mar 23, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Road & nearby private property Details

Description

Make reachy moves up the blank face to reach a left-facing dihedral. Lieback up to a stance, then hand traverse right out the large roof to a hanging prow. Continue up and right through another roof to the Rabbit Hole anchors.

Location

This lies on the blank wall right of the Wild Overhang are two bolts leading to a large, hanging dihedral capped by a roof.

Protection

Two bolts, pro to 3" with extra #0.75 - #2 Camalots.

Photos

Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
  5.11+
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
  5.11+
Outstanding! Another wild, unique gem at Thunder Ridge. Went left at the start, extremely hard past 2nd bolt, and I found the move standing up into the crack to be very heads-up. Punch in a green Alien, then a 0.4 Camalot to protect the lieback. Roof traverse climbs like a dream!

Too bad you need to run it up to the high anchors, rope drag becomes a CHORE. But totally worth it for the movement down low. Jun 19, 2011
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
  5.11c
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
  5.11c
I went a bit left as there didn't seem to be much for the hands going straight at it. There are good feet and a small feature for the left hand. I thought the move past bolt 2 was the business! Jun 8, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
How do you get past the first bolt?!?! Jun 7, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11+
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11+
Wow.... Just wow. One of the most memorable pitches I've ever climbed. 11++ seems a little more fair for a rating ;) Mar 21, 2011
Kevin McLaughlin
Colorado Springs
 
Kevin McLaughlin   Colorado Springs
 
While borrowing a friend's drill.... It came unclipped at a very inopportune time. It crashed onto the base of the wall suffering damage. Almost taking out my belayer!! The repairs weren't too brutal, but they gave cause for the route name. Mar 20, 2011