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Routes in The Wasp Canyon

Bee Positive T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheat Death V9 7C
Down the Rabbit Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Expensive Route, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
G Route, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pittsburgh Stubby T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Point of Entry T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Raven's Haven, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Scorpion T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starlight T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stinger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Storm T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stormy G, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
W.A.S.P. (What About Some Pesticide?) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
You are Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kevin McLaughlin, Steve Cheyney, 1997
Page Views: 1,716 total · 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Road & nearby private property Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Better enjoy this, Point of Entry is the only easy way up the Wild Overhang Wall. A short way up Wasp Canyon the wall on the left side kicks out a huge overhang, and this is the Wild Overhang Wall. On the left side of the overhang, low in the canyon, and off fine flat boulder is a bolt protected and right traversing jug haul. This straightens out and heads for the roof above on bolts. At the roof, pro switches to Friends and Camalots, or even some bigger stoppers. Haul over the roof on more jugs, with a big run out to the anchor. Excellent climbing on a steep wall that only gets steeper as you tackle the routes on the right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

QD and Camalots in the #1, #2, #3 range. A 60m rope gets you down from a double bolt anchor over the lip.

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This is a good route, but really only one move of 5.10 at the first roof. Two bolts and small gear on the final headwall. Apr 21, 2008
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
Fun, short route then lots of traversing. Good way to get atop and set a TR for the 12s. May 2, 2016
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
The first bolt is too low. It should be higher. I think they should have put it higher, and then you could just stick clip it. Jul 7, 2016

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