Type: Ice, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Lou Dawson / Michael Kennedy, 1977
Page Views: 4,492 total · 32/month
Shared By: Knockneed Man on Apr 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Park at the Shoshone rest area, underneath I-70.

From here, the real crux of the day, can actually be crossing the Colorado River to obtain the south-side of Glenwood Canyon. There is water that's diverted from the river around here, so there are some shallower portions of river that, during cold weather, can form an ice bridge providing access to the other side. There is a dam, but crossing that is illegal, and I believe there are cameras that monitor this.

Once across the river, follow the train tracks West, but do not walk on them, as this too is considered trespassing. Be discrete.

Head South up a gully towards the rim of the canyon, where a large sheet of ice should be visible. This is the object you desire.

The left side of the curtain provides some steeper and mixed options, though the most obvious line follows the right-hand side of the curtain from a chimney area. This is usually WI4. There is a cave that forms behind the curtain about 100 feet up which can provide an interesting belay, or continue up and right to belay. Above that there are two more pitches, one with moderate ice, and an upper pitch which is steep and mixed and being more in the WI5+ range.

Come prepared for a night out when you do this climb as the ice bridge you crossed early in the morning may not be there in the afternoon.

Protection

Screws. Rap from V-threads.

Descent

Per Tombo: Tree sling raps were available when we climbed the route from the top of the 1st and 2nd pitches. Raps for 2nd pitch are in the small bushy trees down and climbers right from base of third pitch. Raps for 1st pitch are in the trees on climber's right above the snow gully above the little rock band.

Photos