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Routes in Glenwood Canyon Ice

Alcatraz T M11
Deep Throat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5-6 M7
Glenwood Falls - Left / Right / Center WI4-5
Hidden Falls WI4-5
Hidden Falls (Secret 4th Pitch) WI4
Leftmost Corner at Hidden Falls WI5+ M5+
Unknown WI4-5
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Type: Mixed, Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,733 total · 17/month
Shared By: Kevin Gillest on Jan 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

Park at the Shoshone rest area, underneath I-70.

(Follow directions to Hidden Falls)
When approaching Hidden Falls, there is a wide crack system left of the main ice. Starting from the same platform as climbing Hidden Falls.

We believe that if the candle is not hanging on the first pitch, this route will be a lot harder due to the poor rock quality.

Pitch 1 -
The candle was hanging enough to get onto the ice, a pin protects the candle move. The pin is placed in a downward position (the pin was there when we climbed the route) and should be considered very suspect! The rock moves to get into the position to transfer to the candle, are relatively easy, but the rock quality is very poor. We knocked off a fair amount of rock in the process. Once on the candle, make a few moves and it backs off. Next step is relatively easy 4+, with a huge rest before starting up. The 3rd step is harder and longer, maybe 5 or 5+. Belay about 180-200 feet up, after 3rd step, chockstone belay in the chimney.

Pitch 2 -
In our opinion, there were 2 exits to finish this route.

Exit 1 -
Left side corner, continue up staying near the rock on continuous ice, after 70 feet connect hanging candle to get up to the true mixed exit, grade WI6 M hard.

Exit 2 -
Right side face, continue up and left staying right of large hanging candle, connect to detached curtain, finish on ice, WI6.

We followed Exit 1, and we did not get onto the hanging candle, top out for us was 70 feet above the first belay, making it WI5+ M5+.

Protection [Edit]

Ice screws, all lengths. Rock gear needed for Exit 1 finish, standard rock rack to BD #4.

P1: slung chockstone 200 feet up in chimney.
P2: V-thread.

Rob Griz
Rob Griz   Frisco
What a stellar line. Agree with Kevin, had they not left the free-hanger, I would not have gotten on the route due to the heinous rock. I think I may have doubled the size of the cave digging around for another pin placement. None to be had. Clipped the absurd roof pin and had a shaky #1 Camalot just below on the wall. The pull around onto the icicle is sporty and fun. I ran my 70m ropes up past the large chockstone to the base of the big pillar in the corner for P1. I then headed out right and camped out atop the nice flow to where the curtain hangs above. The first 30' of the final 40' of ice was brittle, delamed and only @ 8" thick. I started up the daggers/curtain and stuff just started coming unglued. Had I scoped out the top-out from the base of Hidden Falls, I probably would have pushed on thru the WI5+/6 R/X ice to the top, but due to the poor conditions and the thought of not being able to thread-off the top we pulled the plug and ran a lap on the falls. From our high-point, we could look across into the corner atop the pillar and see an ancient bolt with some ratty white sling, looks like it hasn't seen a visitor in a while. Will be back now that I have the beta. I brought a bunch of rock gear (pins and a set of cams to 2") that I didn't use, although a pair of Spectres and maybe 1-2 KB/thin LA could be mentally helpful. Feb 8, 2010
Jeremy Joseph
Glenwood Springs, CO
Jeremy Joseph   Glenwood Springs, CO
Was so fat this year that we climbed solid ice with good protection for 300 feet. Such a sick line! Feb 14, 2013
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
We topped out on both pitches using exit 2, good screws, and single swings for approx. 330ft. The ice was really wet, better bring lots of gloves, and the best Goretex you own. It actually rained on the approach, eventually turned to snow, made for a cold wet day.

Pitch 1, WI4+ or 5-, no mixed this season.

Pitch 2, WI5, Carl Pluim on lead.

Pitch 2, rappel anchor.

Overall route scale.

Mar 19, 2013

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