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Routes in Ripple Wall

Baja Ha Ha S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Current Event S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eddyline TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High H20 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Joker, The S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jumping the Gun S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Re-Thinking the Ethics S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple Effect, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snubnose S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
South Pipe Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Storm Surge S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wake to Wake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Page Views: 5,284 total, 45/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 18, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


132 Opinions

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Closure Details
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This route is short but sweet. The initial move to reach the first bolt could be the crux, then continue up past 3 more bolts, following a right facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the top of an arch. The second crux comes just above the last bolt, reaching to establish the layback position up the remainder of the corner. The guide info is from Stewart Green's publication.

Location

This is the first route you come to on the Ripple Wall (furthest north).

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can also place a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot in between the last bolt and the anchor, but this is not really necessary.

Photos

Jackson Rezen
  5.10a
Jackson Rezen  
  5.10a
Super nice route. Beginning is made easier because of some ware. Looks like there was a fifth bolt that was chopped. I went to the right after the fourth bolt and did some weird slabby technical stuff but the undercling is definitely the better way. I would recommend a 7 or 8 nut as a supplement for the missing bolt. Oct 23, 2017
Jason Denley
CO, AK
 
Jason Denley   CO, AK
 
If it were only longer... great route! Undercling after the last bolt to the anchors, optional pocket or two about halfway. I felt no need for a cam. Have fun. Oct 16, 2016
peakest
Manitou Springs, Colorado
 
peakest   Manitou Springs, Colorado
 
Very fun route. I climbed through the thin face which I believe made it a little harder for myself. Thin feet and slow movement. A+. Oct 12, 2016
JWolford
  5.9+
JWolford  
  5.9+
Awesome route! The crux move is definitely at the bottom. Solid feet have been ground into the slab over the years, so it's a super easy (5.9) climb now. Jun 16, 2016
Cyril Multhauf
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10-
Cyril Multhauf   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10-
This route looks so classic, it's just a clean undercling crack that just yells at you to climb it.

I ended up not leanbacking the undercling (I am 6'5", and that would have been a bit uncomfortable). If you have decent, balancing footwork, you can slab between the third bolt and the anchor. If you chose that way, there is a second crux at the last move before the anchor. Oct 19, 2015
This is a fantastic climb....

We tried it on gear, and it appears that the sandstone is too weak....

Early last summer, my buddy and I were placing some gear (to get closer to the corner/climb it more naturally).... I slipped (about three or four feet above the cam that was deep in the crack) and it ripped out huge chunks of sandstone. It didn't ruin or change the climb at all, but some of the crack is now a bit wider. I would recommend against the gear and feel that the bolts are very well placed. One climber walking past us said he tried gear too and decided it wasn't worth it about halfway up after having a hold break. Feb 5, 2013
John D  
Any thoughts on whether or not this route would go on gear? I've been eyeing it for a couple of months now but haven't gotten around to getting on it. Nov 26, 2012
This is one of the best climbs here. Always fun! Sep 30, 2012
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
 
David Hertel   Haines, Alaska
 
I generally used the slopers above the rail more than the underclings. It just felt easier to balance to get my feet to a better stance. At the bolts, I was clinging to one of these said slopers and discovered (after I had anchored in with a sling) a ginormous hold directly above the anchor bolts in the bottom of the rail. Wish I had found that one out beforehand. It would certainly have made things a lot less complicated. Fortunately though, I didn't take a whipper, but it was sure a difficult on-sight for my level of climbing and style. Dec 16, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Really fun route. Crux is definitely the start. I was about to lead it walking the upper ledge, as I had seen others do on top rope. A friend suggested I do the layback; really glad I did. That first move to establish is super fun! Jun 8, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
 
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
 
It appears that there is a bolt scar between the current last bolt and the anchors where there used to be one more bolt. Once you get the undercling, there is only one committing move before it is actually more relaxing than the route looks. May 5, 2010
j.mayo
Colorado Springs, CO
j.mayo   Colorado Springs, CO
This is one of my favorites in RRCOS. Mar 31, 2009
Adub  
Great route. Blood stain adds a little excitement to the route.
The second bolt was a wee bit loose last Sunday (11/16/08). I tightened it as tight as my fingers could get it. Otherwise, it was a stellar route. Nov 21, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
 
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
 
Once you've set the TR anchors, try the face route starting around the second birch tree. All you get are crimppers and 1/8" ledges. It's maybe 5.10 - really makes you trust your feet. Jun 23, 2008
Michael West
Enterprise, AL
 
Michael West   Enterprise, AL
 
Super fun, one of the best routes in RRCOS. Jun 8, 2008