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Re-Thinking the Ethics

5.10a, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 3 from 230 votes
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Red Rock Canyon… > Ripple Wall
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Description

This route is short but sweet. The initial move to reach the first bolt could be the crux, then continue up past 3 more bolts, following a right facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the top of an arch. The second crux comes just above the last bolt, reaching to establish the layback position up the remainder of the corner. The guide info is from Stewart Green's publication.

Location

This is the first route you come to on the Ripple Wall (furthest north).

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can also place a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot in between the last bolt and the anchor, but this is not really necessary.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting quickdraw ready to clip.
[Hide Photo] Getting quickdraw ready to clip.
Rob following the start of the climb. The first moves and the last moves are the hardest.
[Hide Photo] Rob following the start of the climb. The first moves and the last moves are the hardest.
Baker leading...on-sight.
[Hide Photo] Baker leading...on-sight.
Nice lead for RROS.
[Hide Photo] Nice lead for RROS.
Halfway up the climb. Bring a small cam for the top.
[Hide Photo] Halfway up the climb. Bring a small cam for the top.
Mid-crux.<br>
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Photo by Brian R.
[Hide Photo] Mid-crux. Photo by Brian R.
Shane Walter.
[Hide Photo] Shane Walter.
At the anchors.
[Hide Photo] At the anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael West
Enterprise, AL
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun, one of the best routes in RRCOS. Jun 8, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
 
[Hide Comment] Once you've set the TR anchors, try the face route starting around the second birch tree. All you get are crimppers and 1/8" ledges. It's maybe 5.10 - really makes you trust your feet. Jun 23, 2008
[Hide Comment] Great route. Blood stain adds a little excitement to the route.
The second bolt was a wee bit loose last Sunday (11/16/08). I tightened it as tight as my fingers could get it. Otherwise, it was a stellar route. Nov 21, 2008
j.mayo
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorites in RRCOS. Mar 31, 2009
mountainmicah83 Morgan
Colorado Springs
 
[Hide Comment] It appears that there is a bolt scar between the current last bolt and the anchors where there used to be one more bolt. Once you get the undercling, there is only one committing move before it is actually more relaxing than the route looks. May 5, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Really fun route. Crux is definitely the start. I was about to lead it walking the upper ledge, as I had seen others do on top rope. A friend suggested I do the layback; really glad I did. That first move to establish is super fun! Jun 8, 2010
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
 
[Hide Comment] I generally used the slopers above the rail more than the underclings. It just felt easier to balance to get my feet to a better stance. At the bolts, I was clinging to one of these said slopers and discovered (after I had anchored in with a sling) a ginormous hold directly above the anchor bolts in the bottom of the rail. Wish I had found that one out beforehand. It would certainly have made things a lot less complicated. Fortunately though, I didn't take a whipper, but it was sure a difficult on-sight for my level of climbing and style. Dec 16, 2010
[Hide Comment] This is one of the best climbs here. Always fun! Sep 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] Any thoughts on whether or not this route would go on gear? I've been eyeing it for a couple of months now but haven't gotten around to getting on it. Nov 26, 2012
[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic climb....

We tried it on gear, and it appears that the sandstone is too weak....

Early last summer, my buddy and I were placing some gear (to get closer to the corner/climb it more naturally).... I slipped (about three or four feet above the cam that was deep in the crack) and it ripped out huge chunks of sandstone. It didn't ruin or change the climb at all, but some of the crack is now a bit wider. I would recommend against the gear and feel that the bolts are very well placed. One climber walking past us said he tried gear too and decided it wasn't worth it about halfway up after having a hold break. Feb 5, 2013
Cyril Multhauf
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] This route looks so classic, it's just a clean undercling crack that just yells at you to climb it.

I ended up not leanbacking the undercling (I am 6'5", and that would have been a bit uncomfortable). If you have decent, balancing footwork, you can slab between the third bolt and the anchor. If you chose that way, there is a second crux at the last move before the anchor. Oct 19, 2015
JWolford
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Awesome route! The crux move is definitely at the bottom. Solid feet have been ground into the slab over the years, so it's a super easy (5.9) climb now. Jun 16, 2016
peakest
Manitou Springs, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. I climbed through the thin face which I believe made it a little harder for myself. Thin feet and slow movement. A+. Oct 12, 2016
Jason Denley
CO, AK
 
[Hide Comment] If it were only longer... great route! Undercling after the last bolt to the anchors, optional pocket or two about halfway. I felt no need for a cam. Have fun. Oct 16, 2016
Jackson Rezen
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Super nice route. Beginning is made easier because of some ware. Looks like there was a fifth bolt that was chopped. I went to the right after the fourth bolt and did some weird slabby technical stuff but the undercling is definitely the better way. I would recommend a 7 or 8 nut as a supplement for the missing bolt. Oct 23, 2017
D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Best route I climbed in Red Rock Canyon. I would definitely recommend placing a cam to protect for the follower. It looked like anything from 0.3 to 0.5 would work. If you don't place, your follower is getting pulled aggressively away from their holds and would take an awkward fall if they don't successfully get into the lieback. Mar 8, 2018
Josh Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Everything on this wall except for the "5.11s" are in the 5.7 range. Not steep, big positive holds, and well-protected. Don't be fooled by the anti-sandbag. Jul 21, 2020