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Routes in Windy Wall

Allspice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cayenne Pepper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coyote Ugly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Zyme T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Smokes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hoot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miles From Nowhere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Oh Beehive, Baby! T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubber Gloves and Razor Blades T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scoot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slate Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Gary Slate (solo)
Page Views: 150 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 14, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Solo up to the ledge beneath the heavily pocketed wall - weird and scary (R).

Two bolt anchor for belay.

Launch up the overhang and wall above (crux) to the slabby last section.

Basically a two-pitch climb. Rappel down from the climb to the two-bolt anchor, then a short rappel back to the ground.

Location

The big pocketed wall.

Protection

Seven bolts, two bolt and sling anchor.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I'm no historian for this area - I think I got the info from the old Sierra Eastside Guide? So I could be wrong. Jul 26, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10c R
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10c R
All I can add to this is apologies to Gary Slate if in fact we (Alan and I) bolted a bold solo. There were no signs or documentation of a prior ascent at the time and we cleaned some loose rock.

I am pretty sure I was in good shape when Alan and I did the route ground up bolting (solid 5.10), not sure if we used aid (hook) or not for the second bolt on overhanging ground. Then the route goes up and left to a little rib of patina plates and scoops....some incredibly scary slab (5.9) at the top if free solo, nothing that a solid climber should mind with our bolts for pro. Pretty sure anyone soloing the slab would wonder about their judgement at the top :).

We approached the upper headwall from the far left. There is a 5.6/5.7 move around a corner to gain the upper slab above the other routes. If you pro this, then you belay at the base of the upper section (2 bolts). If you solo it, just flip your rope over so that it runs well to the double bolts and start the next bit. Jul 26, 2016
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
In the most recent Bishop Area guidebook, Marty lists the route as Hueco Thanks, FA John Tuttle and Alan Hirahara in the 90's. Did Gary solo this line first? Apr 5, 2011