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Routes in Windy Wall

Allspice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cayenne Pepper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clean Sweep S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Coyote Ugly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. Zyme T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holy Smokes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hoot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miles From Nowhere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Oh Beehive, Baby! T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rubber Gloves and Razor Blades T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scoot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slate Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gary Slate, '80s
Page Views: 795 total, 6/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Awesome overhung huecos on the far right side of the Windy Wall. Runout after 3rd bolt, with only some thin, questionable pro protecting the final roof/bulge. The anchor used to be a huge pile of webbing around a giant horn, but it was very ugly and visible even from the parking area. We removed the eyesore old anchor and replaced it with a 2-bolt anchor with mussy hooks, and replaced the upper two bolts (the first had been replaced earlier).

Location

Obvious steep huecos on the far right side of the wall.

Protection

3 bolts, a couple thin cams at top, 2-bolt anchor with mussy hooks. First bolt is nearly useless and gives a lot of rope drag.

Photos

MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Did this climb today. It is like 5.10a PG13, in our opinion.

We did not encounter ANY issues with rope drag on the first bolt. There are not enough bolts to have rope drag of any kind!

A fall above the 3rd bolt would be long but clean due to the steep nature of the route.

I could not find the gear placement Greg Barnes talks about, but 20' up from the last bolt one can sling a bomber horn with a dyneema sling before climbing the last section to the anchors.

Really fun climbing with great sequences! An awkward crux, run-out 5.8, and a little bat guano are the only deterrents to an otherwise enjoyable romp.

A badass ground-up FA! Aug 27, 2015