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Routes in Moab Rim Trail Towers

Baby Huey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2
Requiem 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0 PG13
Super Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Super Seam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3 PG13
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jimmy Dunn and Paul Ross
Page Views: 1,483 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 1, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route, though only 5.10+, should not be attempted by those who are near their limit at that grade. The falls are not long but if you take one you will hit something... one side or the other of the chimney.
P1 - climb a soft crack to a ledge, then into the chimney on ruble. Belay in the back of the chimney at the ledges highpoint.
P2 - climb up a crack for 3 or so feet, then onto a loose ledge, then begin the stem fest. Clip about 7 pieces of fixed gear for the next 100 feet. Some pins, some bolts. Stem onto the pillar and do some easy moves, then a fun arete move to reach the summit. A chain anchor is now on the top.

Location

A 30 minute hike up the Moab Rim RV trail. The climb starts at the base of the right side of the pillar.

Protection

1 set of friends, some slings, and a few draws. You need two 60's to do the rappel. Hang your ropes on the outside of the pillar Rap from the summit standing on the inside then follow the lines around to the outside. Its a cool rappel.

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
I think the couple of bolts or so on the right edge from the belay on the shoulder (placed on the first ascent) were chopped later by Jimmy some time after Greg Childs had freed it. Nov 25, 2009
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
It appears that this description is not of the original route . The original route climbed the chimney from its left side of the massive flake. There was certainly less pro on the first ascent.. Aug 19, 2009