Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jason Repko, Andy Roberts
Page Views: 1,300 total · 10/month
Shared By: A. Roberts on Mar 8, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Pitch 1: Climb up the crack through a small roof (5.10 C1) for about 90' to a nice ledge at the base of a semi-rotten pillar. P2: Start up the right facing corner behind and above the pillar C1 up for 50' when you can tension traverse to the right to a thin splitter, aid until the crack opens, then free climb up to a two bolt anchor (80'?). P3: This can be done as one long pitch or split up. Start up a 3-4" crack passing a wider pod and then the crack even seams out a couple of times. Head straight up passing a drilled angle and into the crack again. This is where the rock starts getting really soft. Get a piece in as high as you can and traverse 15' left to a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for another 30' to the top. At one point near the top I drilled a pecker hole to pass some really rotten rock, but I've been told this loose rock has been trundled. 2 bolt anchor(130'). Be sure to hike up to the true summit for the spectacular view in all directions!


Located further up the Moab Rim trail and around the corner from Super Chimney on the left side of a tombstone shaped rock. It's a free standing summit and has an unbelievable panoramic view of Potash, Arches, Moab, and behind the rocks. The descent follows 2 double rope rappels from bolt anchors. The route is North facing and would be a good summer route.


Triples on the cams. You may want a couple of pins for the last pitch, KB, 1/2" Angle, and a Pecker.


A. Roberts
Boulder, CO
  5.10a A2
A. Roberts   Boulder, CO
  5.10a A2
This route was climbed in Feb of 99' which was a cold time to be on this wall. We left a registry on top with a coupon for a free large pizza from Pasta Jay's (which I was managing at the time). One Saturday night later that year, these two dirty climbers from Durango poked their heads into the kitchen to cash in on the free pizza. Mar 8, 2008
Jason Repko  
Your reward at the top is one of the most phenomenal views of Moab! If I remember correctly, there were lots of goodies in the can - can't wait to climb it again someday.
~jason repko Nov 21, 2009