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Routes in Moab Rim Trail Towers
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Baby Huey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A2 |
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Kane Creek Spire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Requiem 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0 PG13 |
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Super Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Super Seam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3 PG13 |
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| Type: | Aid, 325 ft (98 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Sam Lightner and Josh Gross |
| Page Views: | 1,913 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Oct 20, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Moab Rim Tower is a Navajo Sandstone spire, detached from the main wall of the Moab Rim. There are actually 2 routes on the tower. The original, thought to have been established by Jimmy Dunn, shares a starting pitch with this route, then climbs a crack system left of Requiem. It is mid 5.12, with a soft, face climbing crux on bad bolts at the top of the spire. The pitches below that are ok, but not what you would write home about.
Requiem follows the crack and face up the front of the tower. It is very exposed and is a beautiful line. Unfortunately, the last pitch is on fryable rock and despite its "Redrock" looks, is of questionable character. To large degree this is to be expected as it is Navajo, not Wingate. Moab RIm Tower is probably the tallest of the Navajo Towers in the Moab Area. Josh and I established the route this fall, but the fixed pro was placed in the past.
Other than Castleton in Spring, when the fields are green and there is still snow on the La Sals, I would have to say this is the most scenic climb I have done it he desert. The views are just beautiful.
Pitch 1 = Climb up and left passing a bulgy slab on soft rock. The crack is quite soft near the top, but is not difficult. But be careful. A fixed anchor exists on the next ledge. 5.11-, 60 feet
Pitch 2 = Climb the crack above the anchor on relatively good rock, passing a small roof on fingers. Tunnel through and pop out on a perfect belay ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.10, 75 feet
Pitch 3 = Climb up and left to reacha finger crack. Ascend this througha bulge, then gain a bit back on a slabby section. Mover further on to a dihedral and arete doing technical and pwoerful moves on mixed ground. Your on pretty good rock here and the pro keeps you safe, but its very difficult climbing. Exit to a ledge on technical face climbing on the arete. 5.12+, 110 feet
Pitch 4 = From the most exposed ledge in the desert, from which you feel you could step off and land in the Colorado 1000 feet below, follow face holds to the summit. This pitch was not redpointed as we continued to break holds. They look solid and if they were on Potash, where they are protected from the elements, this would be a hyperclassic bit of desert climbing. As is, its 5.10 A0. You can, with some stretching and a move here and there, you can aid through on excellent protection. There is a stinger in its tail though; the last 25 feet is not as difficult as the rest, but its questionable rock and is 5.10-. For those wondering, we feel the grade would probably be 12c if you could redpoint it without breaking a hold and weighting the rope. 5.10, A0, 80 feet
Rappel the route on a single 70 meter cord. Thats a seventy, as in longer than a sixty. Be very careful on the rap of the crux pitch as it is a stretcher.
Requiem follows the crack and face up the front of the tower. It is very exposed and is a beautiful line. Unfortunately, the last pitch is on fryable rock and despite its "Redrock" looks, is of questionable character. To large degree this is to be expected as it is Navajo, not Wingate. Moab RIm Tower is probably the tallest of the Navajo Towers in the Moab Area. Josh and I established the route this fall, but the fixed pro was placed in the past.
Other than Castleton in Spring, when the fields are green and there is still snow on the La Sals, I would have to say this is the most scenic climb I have done it he desert. The views are just beautiful.
Pitch 1 = Climb up and left passing a bulgy slab on soft rock. The crack is quite soft near the top, but is not difficult. But be careful. A fixed anchor exists on the next ledge. 5.11-, 60 feet
Pitch 2 = Climb the crack above the anchor on relatively good rock, passing a small roof on fingers. Tunnel through and pop out on a perfect belay ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.10, 75 feet
Pitch 3 = Climb up and left to reacha finger crack. Ascend this througha bulge, then gain a bit back on a slabby section. Mover further on to a dihedral and arete doing technical and pwoerful moves on mixed ground. Your on pretty good rock here and the pro keeps you safe, but its very difficult climbing. Exit to a ledge on technical face climbing on the arete. 5.12+, 110 feet
Pitch 4 = From the most exposed ledge in the desert, from which you feel you could step off and land in the Colorado 1000 feet below, follow face holds to the summit. This pitch was not redpointed as we continued to break holds. They look solid and if they were on Potash, where they are protected from the elements, this would be a hyperclassic bit of desert climbing. As is, its 5.10 A0. You can, with some stretching and a move here and there, you can aid through on excellent protection. There is a stinger in its tail though; the last 25 feet is not as difficult as the rest, but its questionable rock and is 5.10-. For those wondering, we feel the grade would probably be 12c if you could redpoint it without breaking a hold and weighting the rope. 5.10, A0, 80 feet
Rappel the route on a single 70 meter cord. Thats a seventy, as in longer than a sixty. Be very careful on the rap of the crux pitch as it is a stretcher.
Location
Moab Rim Tower is along the Moab Rim above the 4 wheel drive trail of the same name. Park in the BLM parking area on Kane Springs Road a couple miles from town. Hike up the jeep trail about a 1/4 mile, then turn up slope and pass through the bands about 250 yds to the right of the tower. Traverse the wide ledge to the towers southwest facing base.
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